Gaurav Gupta with showstopper Ananya Panday at his show in Mumbai last night 
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Avant Garde Brides. Fluid Figures. Silhouettes That Float. Yes, Gaurav Gupta’s In The House

The couturier’s much-awaited show in Mumbai last night, ‘Light Song’ brought the balance between solar and lunar energies to a packed runway. Molten crystal embroidery that meets chikankari? We're in!

Ismat Tahseen

If you’re seated at a Gaurav Gupta show, you may as well be ready for Circle du Soleil. For one, his outfits spell movement— exaggerated sleeves, shoulders that power outwards, gowns that spiral into waves, drapes that cascade and coiled corsets that pack otherworld charm. They’re also accompanied by performance artists that set his narrative into motion, entwining themselves into his story before each segment. This met the couturier's signature last night as he delivered a stunning showcase of his new collection at Jio Convention Centre, Mumbai, the gravity-defying moves setting the backdrop to his sculptural vision.

Performance met the runway at Gaurav Gupta's show last night

It was a large assemblage—more than 40 looks spanning bridal couture, cocktail dressing, occasion wear, reception dressing and menswear. And it took over 150 artisans and 4,000 hours of solid work to bring this into the big day. If Gaurav had to bring the collection down to a word, he tells us that would be: "harmony!"

Manifest caught the designer ahead of his big day to talk about his new oeuvre, he's bringing to Indian silhouettes for the first time and today's bride means to him. Over to GG...

His collection was about Lunar, Solar and Cosmic Union

What is the union about? Do take us into the collection’s two distinct chapters. What do they represent?

(GG): The collection unfolds through three acts. Lunar explores reflection, intuition and the divine feminine through powder blue, midnight blue and ivory. These colours evoke moonlight, stillness and emotional depth. The embroideries are softer and more fluid, allowing light to move gently across the garments.

Solar is inspired by Surya and the vitality of the Sun. Metallic golds, rich brocades and techniques that emulate the surface of the sun, creating a sense of warmth, movement and radiance. It is about purpose, energy and celebration.

The final act, Cosmic Union, brings these two worlds together through ivory and pearl. It is a moment of harmony, where opposing energies no longer compete but complete one another.

On the runway at 'Light Song'

Why did the relationship between the sun and the moon become the central metaphor for this collection? What do lunar and solar energies represent to you personally?


(GG): I've always been drawn to the idea that balance is not created through sameness, but through the coexistence of differences. In Indian philosophy, the Moon and the Sun aren't opposing forces. They depend on one another, each revealing something the other cannot.

To me, lunar energy represents introspection, sensitivity and intuition, while solar energy embodies action, confidence and purpose. We all move between these states throughout our lives. I wanted the collection to celebrate that rhythm rather than asking us to choose one over the other.

You've described the show as an immersive experience blending fashion, performance, music, and storytelling. Is storytelling just as important as the garments themselves?

(GG): For me, couture has never been just about clothing. It is about creating an emotional experience. A garment can be admired for its craftsmanship, but storytelling allows people to connect with it on a deeper level. Music, movement, performance and space all become part of the same narrative. When those elements come together, the audience doesn't simply watch a collection, they experience it.

Gaurav Gupta with Ananya Panday

Do you see bridal couture as an ideal medium for expressing these larger philosophical ideas?

(GG): Absolutely. Weddings have always been about transformation and new beginnings. They mark the union of two people, but they also represent personal growth and hope. Bridal couture naturally carries emotion, symbolism and ritual, which makes it a beautiful medium for exploring ideas around balance, identity and connection. Those themes felt very much at home within Light Song.

Any new techniques or materials your atelier experimented with this season?

(GG): Every collection is an opportunity to push the House's technical language forward. This season, we focused extensively on embroidery engineering and textile development. We introduced new custom jacquards, developed new sculpting techniques in lace and expanded techniques like our molten crystal embroidery (first seen in our Paris 2026 collection, The Divine Androgyne), into Indian silhouettes for the first time. We also revisited some of our defining House signatures, including Lightfall bugle bead shading and chikankari, reinterpreting them through a contemporary lens. Innovation for us is always about evolving craftsmanship rather than replacing it.

If this collection had a single narrative or emotion, what would it be?

(GG): Harmony.

Not harmony as perfection, but harmony as acceptance. The collection is about embracing different energies, different emotions and different parts of ourselves. I hope it reminds people that beauty often exists in balance rather than extremes.

The collection took over 4,000 hours of work to come together

This collection represents more than 4,000 hours of craftsmanship by over 150 artisans. What does preserving couture craftsmanship mean to you in this fast-paced luxury industry?

(GG): Craftsmanship is the foundation of everything we do. Every embroidery, every textile and every silhouette carries the knowledge of generations of artisans. In a world that increasingly values speed, couture reminds us of the importance of patience, precision and human touch. Preserving these traditions isn't about protecting the past. It's about ensuring they continue to evolve, finding new relevance while remaining true to their origins.

We'd love to know: What's the biggest risk you took with this collection?

(GG): The biggest risk was choosing to evolve rather than repeat. Our House is known for sculptural silhouettes, but this season we consciously shifted our attention towards embroidery engineering and textile innovation. It challenged our atelier in entirely new ways. At the same time, we revisited some of our most recognisable House signatures and reimagined them instead of simply recreating them. Evolution always involves risk, but it is also what keeps creativity alive.

Bridal fashion often reflects the cultural mood of its time. What does the 2026 bride want that perhaps she didn't five years ago?

(GG): Today's bride is defining her own traditions. She wants garments that reflect her personality rather than convention. She is just as interested in craftsmanship and emotion as she is in silhouette. Weddings have become more personal, and bridal couture is evolving with that shift. It is no longer about dressing for expectation. It is about dressing for self-expression.

What’s a day in the life of Gaurav Gupta like? Does that change as you move closer to your show with work, fittings and more?

(GG): Every day begins in the atelier because that is where ideas become reality. There are design reviews, embroidery discussions, fabric developments and countless fittings. As we get closer to a show, the pace becomes much more intense. Every hour matters, but those final weeks are also incredibly collaborative. It is inspiring to see hundreds of people, from artisans to pattern makers and stylists, coming together to bring one vision to life.

You’ve designed India's first couture edition luxury car. What made this collaboration feel like a natural extension of the House of Gaurav Gupta?

(GG): The House has always believed that couture is a philosophy rather than a category. Whether it is a garment, a space or an object, the same principles of craftsmanship, innovation and storytelling apply. Designing the MG M9 Couture Edition felt like an opportunity to explore those values beyond fashion and imagine what couture could mean in the world of mobility.

At what point did you realise that your sculptural couture language could translate into automotive design?

(GG): Architecture and movement have always been central to my work, so the transition felt surprisingly intuitive. A car, much like couture, is built around proportion, form and emotion. The challenge wasn't whether the language could translate, but how to reinterpret it while respecting the integrity of automotive design.

Your couture is known for fluidity, movement, and architectural silhouettes. How did you reinterpret these signatures on the MG M9?

(GG): Rather than simply applying couture motifs to a vehicle, we looked at how the philosophy of the House could shape the experience of the car itself. Fluid lines, sculptural detailing and a sense of movement informed the design language, while craftsmanship and refinement remained at the centre. The result is a vehicle that feels expressive yet sophisticated, carrying the spirit of couture into a completely new medium.

What elements of the car became your “canvas” for couture?

(GG): The interior offered the greatest opportunity because it is where people experience luxury most intimately. Materiality, detailing, colour, texture and finishes became our canvas. We approached each of those elements with the same attention to proportion, craftsmanship and storytelling that defines our couture collections.

What’s one trend you want to see more brides wearing, for the upcoming season?

(GG): I would love to see brides embrace individuality over trends. The most memorable bridal looks are the ones that feel authentic to the woman wearing them. Whether that's a sculptural veil, unexpected colour or a beautifully crafted ivory ensemble, confidence will always be more timeless than any trend.

Your work is now worn by clients across Europe, the Middle East, North America, and Asia. What do you think the world now understands about Indian couture that it perhaps overlooked a decade ago?

(GG): There is a much deeper appreciation today for Indian couture as a creative discipline rather than simply a craft tradition. The world has always admired the extraordinary skill of Indian artisans, but now it is also recognising the originality of Indian design, storytelling and innovation. We are contributing new ideas to the global fashion conversation while remaining deeply rooted in our own cultural identity, and I think that is an incredibly exciting place for Indian couture to be.