When Isha Ambani ascended the famous steps of the Met Gala this year, it was not just her Gaurav Gupta sari or Subodh Gupta’s bronze mango inside a crochet handbag that caught everyone’s attention. The real show stealer was the sarpech, once owned by the Nizam of Hyderabad, which found a new expression on fashion’s biggest red carpet. The royal piece that now belongs to her mother
Nita Ambani, was pinned dramatically onto the back of her blouse. Isha quietly revived a forgotten jewel from India’s royal past, and instead of styling it in a conventional form, she chose to be more experimental with the archival piece.
The sarpech has historically symbolised masculine power and nobility, but Isha reclaimed it through a feminine lens, making it gender agnostic. This ornament was not merely decorative during the early days but a marker of sophistication and presence within courtly
life. Derived from the Persian words sar (head) and pech (twist or adornment), the sarpech first emerged under the Mughal influence and evolved across different princely states in India. Traditionally pinned onto a turban, it often featured a central plume motif with gemstones arranged in floral or crescent forms. In Rajasthan, the ornament became larger and more elaborate, while the Deccan interpretations leaned towards intricate enamel work and rare Golconda diamonds. This was significant as the grandeur of a ruler was measured by the magnificence of the sarpech. Its intricate craftsmanship reflected artistic excellence, associated with royal adornment.
While the sarpech flourished in Mughal ateliers, it was Rajasthan that truly transformed it into a distinct symbol of regional royalty. Across princely states like Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur, Bikaner, and Kishangarh, Rajput rulers adapted the ornament into their own visual vocabulary. It became inseparable from Rajput identity—worn at coronations, weddings, military processions, and ceremonial gatherings “Its recent resurgence can largely be credited to a growing appetite for archival Indian jewellery and heirloom dressing.
Designers, stylists, and collectors are increasingly looking beyond conventional groom staples and rediscovering forgotten royal ornaments with fresh eyes. The sarpech, with its sculptural silhouette and rich historical associations,naturally lends itself to this revival,” opines Abhishek Raniwala of Raniwala 1881.
Styling Inspiration
While grooms have been adorning turbans with sarpech as part of their wedding attire, the new-age groom is taking it up a notch and picking up this accessory in vintage, oversized designs. “The Sarpech remains one of the most elegant ways to elevate traditional attire. “It instantly lends depth and gravitas to sherwanis, particularly in muted ivory, gold, or jewel-toned palettes. Antique-inspired sarpeches paired with kalgis and strings of pearls evoke old-world opulence without feeling theatrical. The key lies in balance— allowing the ornament to remain the focal point rather than competing with heavily-embellished garments,” says stylist Isha Bhansali.