If there is one thing Manish Malhotra has never been particularly interested in, it is understated glamour. Over the years, the designer has built a recognisable fashion vocabulary around rich fabrics, elaborate embellishments, cinematic silhouettes and an unapologetic love for dressing up. But at his Luxury Prêt 2026 showcase at Lakmé Fashion Week in Delhi, there was an interesting shift in how that glamour was expressed.
The clothes were still unmistakably Manish Malhotra, but the silhouettes appeared more relaxed, the styling more eclectic and the approach to occasionwear less dependent on conventional festive dressing. There were fluid skirts, cropped jackets, elongated layers, sharply constructed separates and enough metallic shine to remind everyone whose runway they were watching. Yet, much of the collection felt designed for people who want to dress up without necessarily committing to the grandeur of traditional couture.
Presented by Maruti Suzuki NEXA at Taj Palace, New Delhi, on October 17, the show marked Malhotra's return to the Lakmé Fashion Week platform after nearly three and a half years. With more than 100 models walking the runway, it was an expansive presentation that moved between womenswear, menswear, fine jewellery and accessories.
The colour palette was particularly well suited to the festive and wedding season. Deep reds, maroons, emerald greens, rich blues and earthy browns brought warmth and depth to the runway, while black, luminous gold and burnished silver added a more eveningwear-oriented dimension.
The richness of the fabrics and surface treatments was evident, but what made the collection interesting was how they interacted with comparatively clean silhouettes. Cropped jackets were paired with fluid skirts, elongated layers softened structured separates, and relaxed tailoring offered an alternative to heavily constructed occasionwear.
Metallic finishes were another recurring feature. Liquid gold, reflective silver and intricate embellishments caught the light, sometimes taking centre stage and elsewhere appearing as accents against deeper colours. The contrast between matte and luminous surfaces gave the collection visual variety without requiring every look to be equally ornate.
There was also a welcome diversity in the shapes on offer. Some ensembles leaned towards sleek, contemporary eveningwear, while others retained the familiar drama associated with the designer's couture vocabulary. The result was an eclectic wardrobe rather than a collection built around one dominant silhouette.
For women navigating Diwali parties, cocktail evenings, sangeets and wedding receptions, that variety is particularly relevant. Not every celebration calls for a heavily embroidered lehenga, and Malhotra's latest offering made room for those who prefer statement separates, fluid drapes and sharply constructed pieces that can be styled beyond a single occasion.
One of the more significant developments was the introduction of Manish Malhotra Menswear Luxe Prêt, expanding the house's occasionwear vocabulary into a more contemporary masculine wardrobe.
The offering moved between refined shirts, relaxed trousers, tailored jackets and layered separates, with Indian influences appearing through embellishment, texture and styling rather than relying exclusively on traditional silhouettes.
It was a timely addition. Men's wedding wardrobes have moved considerably beyond the familiar sherwani-and-bandhgala formula, with more room for expressive jackets, relaxed tailoring and pieces that can travel between formal dinners, cocktail celebrations and festive occasions.
Malhotra's menswear retained the decorative character of the house, but the cleaner cuts and more versatile separates gave it a different proposition from ceremonial dressing.
The accompanying fine jewellery and accessories added another layer to the presentation. Sculptural bags, statement jewellery and pieces featuring diamonds and coloured gemstones complemented the clothing, occasionally introducing an interesting contrast between elaborate accessories and relatively restrained ensembles.
For the finale, Malhotra brought together Sara Ali Khan and Ayushmann Khurrana, who appeared in contrasting interpretations of black occasionwear.
Khan wore a dramatic strapless ensemble featuring a sculpted corset with an asymmetrical neckline, embellished with metallic and multicoloured floral detailing. The structured bodice was balanced by a flowing black skirt and sheer drape, creating movement without losing the sharpness of the silhouette. Emerald jewellery added a welcome flash of colour.
Khurrana, meanwhile, represented the collection's new menswear direction in a black shirt and tailored trousers, layered with an embroidered jacket featuring silver-toned floral and ornamental detailing across the shoulders, lapels and sleeves.
His look was particularly interesting for grooms and wedding guests looking to experiment with formalwear without abandoning classic tailoring. A well-cut black jacket with considered embellishment can make as much of an impression as a more elaborate traditional ensemble.
Together, the two showstoppers captured the collection's contrasting moods: sculptural evening glamour on one hand and expressive, tailored menswear on the other.
Speaking about the collection, Malhotra described Luxury Prêt 2026 as an exploration of glamour that feels "effortless, contemporary and deeply personal".
That intention was most convincing in the pieces where construction and fabric were allowed to carry the look, rather than embellishment alone. The collection was certainly not a departure from the designer's familiar aesthetic, nor did it need to be. The metallics, intricate detailing and cinematic styling remained very much part of the picture.
What felt different was the breadth of the wardrobe and the willingness to place relaxed separates alongside more dramatic occasionwear.
With Diwali celebrations underway and the wedding season approaching, Luxury Prêt 2026 offered a timely reminder that festive dressing needn't follow one formula. There is room for colour, shine, craftsmanship and grandeur, but equally for cleaner silhouettes, fluid layers and pieces that feel a little less ceremonial.
And perhaps that's where the collection was at its most relevant: not in abandoning the glamour Manish Malhotra is known for, but in finding more ways to wear it.