This guide explores why polki—uncut diamonds set in kundan—remains a bridal favourite, blending centuries-old Mughal craftsmanship with modern, featherlight designs. It explains how to judge quality, why 22k gold and hand-setting matter, and how today’s brides build versatile collections of chokers, jhumkas and hero pieces that move from wedding ceremonies to everyday wear.
The timeless allure of these uncut diamonds, or polki, remains irresistible. While it may have its lineage in royal communities, it has now become an essential part of every Indian bride’s wedding trousseau. Even Indian celebrities have embraced its timeless appeal for their own weddings - from Sonam Kapoor-Ahuja, who wore a polki set for her mehendi, to Anushka Sharma on her wedding day.
“Diamonds may change cuts and gold may evolve with new finishes, but uncut polki set in kundan work has an old-world glow that no modern setting can quite replicate,” reasons Akanksha Arora, CEO of Tribe Amrapali, who are renowned for their polki jewellery. “Every piece carries the weight of centuries-old Mughal craftsmanship, and that sense of permanence is exactly what a bride looks for on a day meant to be timeless.”
But wearing polki today doesn't necessarily mean getting decked out in a heavy, head-to-toe set. The traditional craft is being reimagined through a contemporary lens - think featherlight silhouettes and pared-back cool designs “What has allowed polki to remain relevant is its ability to evolve. Today, we are looking at it through a more contemporary lens - minimal and refined designs while retaining its original character and craft form. I think that balance between heritage and modern design is what makes polki timeless rather than trend-driven,” explains Vasundhra Raj, designer of her eponymous jewellery label, known for her contemporary approach to jewellery.
For brides moving between intimate ceremonies, destination weddings and multi-day celebrations, here is your guide to wearing polki for every wedding moment:
Polki traditionally refers to uncut, unpolished diamonds that retain their natural shape and are typically foil-backed and set in gold. This makes the quality of the foiling and setting as important as the stone itself. “The quality of the foil and the goldsmith’s hand-setting is what gives the stone its glow. Machine-set polki looks flat in comparison,” says Akanksha. Consistency matters, too. “Master craftsmen colour- and size-match uncut diamonds across a piece, while noticeable inconsistencies can indicate a rushed or lower-grade job.”
The look and character of a polki piece can vary considerably, but a heavier piece isn’t necessarily better made. What matters more is the precision of the setting, stone matching and quality of gold. Good polki is typically crafted in 22k gold, with intricate handwork that can take weeks, sometimes months. Lower purity can affect both durability and resale value. “If a piece is delivered too quickly at a suspiciously low price, the craftsmanship has likely been compromised somewhere,” she adds.
Brides today want polki to make a statement without overwhelming the outfit or face. “We’re seeing more requests for single-layer, high-impact necklaces over five-layer sets. Asymmetry and negative space are also gaining ground, a departure from traditional polki,” says Akanksha. Complete sets remain popular for the main wedding ceremony, but mixing and layering individual pieces is increasingly gaining ground; consider building a collection that moves with the itinerary.
Both designers recommend investing in a few standalone hero pieces that don’t belong to any one set. This allows effortless mixing across occasions without needing to match everything. “A well-designed choker can become a versatile statement piece, while classic polki hoops can transition effortlessly from festive to everyday dressing. Statement rings are another way to bring polki into the everyday jewellery wardrobe without feeling overly traditional. The idea is to create a jewellery wardrobe that can be mixed, layered and reinterpreted over time,” advises Vasundhra.
A classic polki choker and a pair of jhumkas are timeless investments. “These two, done well, will outlive every trend and can anchor a bridal look for generations, since these are the pieces most often passed down,” adds Akanksha. For versatility, polki studs or a single bracelet or kada can transition seamlessly from the wedding to everyday and occasion wear. “A polki choker can become festive jewellery with a sari years later, while a bracelet can be paired with a cocktail look,” says Vasundhra.
While a white polki set in gold remains the classic, coloured gemstones can completely transform its personality and can either complement or contrast with the outfit. Lighter pieces work particularly well for other wedding functions, while the ceremony is where an elaborate set can truly come into its own. “Colour-forward polki, pairing uncut diamonds with emeralds, rubies and Basra pearls instead of an all-white palette, is one of the directions we’re actively exploring in our collections,” says Akanksha. There are also collections made with detachable layers - a set that can be worn in full for the wedding and broken into standalone pieces later; modern clasps and adjustable lengths make them easy to re-wear, rather than simply store away.
Moving away from the idea that polki has to be heavy or elaborate to feel luxurious, designers are now focusing on pieces that feel special without overwhelming the wearer. “The jewellery should feel special and never feel like it is wearing the woman. The challenge is to preserve the richness of polki while reducing the visual weight,” says Vasundhra. The work of reviving polki jewellery is also tracking a distinct shift in what today’s brides are gravitating towards. Arora notes that minimalist brides still turn to polki for that one heirloom moment.
Brides are no longer looking at heirloom polki jewellery reserved solely for the wedding; longevity and everyday wearability are now equally important. “They want to preserve its sentimental value while making it work for their own style and lifestyle,” says Vasundhra. A grandmother’s polki necklace, for instance, can be reimagined as a pendant, while individual elements can be transformed into rings or bangles.
But the mainstay is a growing interest in traditional polki reimagined through lighter, contemporary designs that are easy to wear. This includes polki paired with contemporary metals and matte-gold finishes for understated luxury, as well as convertible pieces - necklaces that split into shorter styles and tikkas that double as brooches. “Gender-fluid, groom-forward polki is gaining ground, with more grooms opting for polki buttons, kalgis and bracelets. We’re also seeing polki paired with baroque pearls or Art Deco lines, particularly for NRI and destination-wedding brides,” adds Akanksha.
The most compelling bridal jewellery is perhaps that which feels personal enough to be yours, yet timeless enough to be passed down. The future of polki lies in preserving its heritage while allowing each generation to interpret and wear the craft in its own way.