So, what's Mouthfeel? Mixologists across the world will tell you that it plays a big role in creating a second impression for the cocktail. While the presentation and first whiff (for those whisky and wine snobs) usually create the fleeting first impression, it’s the flavour and the mouthfeel that create a longer lasting impression about any drink. It’s not just cocktails, when filter coffee aficionados from Chennai and Bengaluru argue about which version tastes better, the texture of the coffee is a big part of that discussion.
The classic Chennai version tends to be thicker with more full fat milk and coats your tongue. Bartenders across the world build texture with aeration and technique; egg whites create lighter textures while gums like xanthan add viscosity.
When PCO Mumbai first launched it’s “Ode to Textiles” menu, cynicism was one of the first reactions. Can a cocktail capture the essence of India’s rich textile traditions? Rakshay Dhariwal, Founder and Managing Director of Pass Code Hospitality that runs PCO tells us that that scepticism melted as soon as PCO Mumbai’s patrons sampled the bar’s textile-inspired cocktails.
Search for textile-based cocktails and you’re unlikely to discover too many drinks from some of the world’s F&B hotspots like New York or London. You might find a few luxury platforms creating cocktail recipes that complement standout dresses from the New York Fashion Week runway, but these focus more on appearance with occasional references to textures. I came across ‘The Carolina Herrera Fiery Mezcal’ that took cues from bold, red, flowing runway silks that is finished with an edible ruby-red glitter that mirrors shimmering fabric textures.
While Indian cuisine is having an extended global moment—try scoring a table in New York’s top-rated Indian restaurants if you’re not convinced, it’s only fitting that the trend of textiles motifs in cocktails should take off from India. The country’s textile traditions date back to the Indus Valley Civilisation. India’s fine silks and fabrics have been the epitome of global luxury for centuries. Think Banarasi Silk with their heavy brocade detailing complemented by gold and silver zari threads or the stunning Kanchipuram silks or Murshidabad’s Baluchari sarees.
India’s luxury traditions are beginning to find expressions in the country’s ever expanding list of luxury hotels. I sampled Banarasi Resham, one of the signature cocktails at Zarqash, the progressive Indian restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton Bangalore.
According to Colin Tait, the Beverage Director of the hotel, this cocktail draws from the lustrous sheen, intricate karigari and vibrant colours of the iconic silk. Just like Banarasi silk, this cocktail is unapologetically bold and colourful. Don Julio and mezcal are infused with bell pepper, layered with a clarified passion fruit cordial and finished with tamarind-infused vodka. The result is a striking golden-red hue reminiscent of the rich tones of Banarasi silk.
It’s not just India, textile references have inspired cocktails across Asia that reflect the rich textile traditions of the region. 22 Prime, one of Manila’s best-known steakhouses, serves Guava Seda, a cocktail that glides smoothly across the palate, and takes its name from the Filipino word for silk (seda). Bars in Bangkok, one of the world’s hottest bar destinations are making the connection too. I heard about the O.S.S. Room and Bar at the Jim Thompson Heritage Quarter, while catching up with friends at Vesper. This retro-spy-themed speakeasy pays homage to Jim Thompson also known as Thailand’s Silk King with interiors and drinks that augment the experience.
Mumbai’s historic textile legacy provided the context for PCO Mumbai’s “An Ode to Textiles” menu. “It’s this location at NRK House in Kamala House in Kamala Mills, which was once a garment house during Mumbai’s mill era that sparked our team to explore India’s diverse textile traditions and the stories, techniques and cultural associations behind them,” Rakshay sums up the inspiration behind PCO Mumbai’s textile-based cocktail menu.
Members of the bar team selected textiles that personally inspired them and studied their weave, construction, texture and craftsmanship before translating those qualities into a drink. The concepts then went through an internal competition, with the best creations making it onto the final menu.
Rather than beginning with a spirit or flavour profile, each cocktail began with a fabric. The result is a collection of 15 cocktails and three 0% ABV cocktails, spanning textiles from across India.
Each cocktail is accompanied by a swatch of the textile that inspired it, allowing guests to touch and explore the material alongside the drink. PCO’s ‘Muslin’, a clarified gin cocktail for instance plays on muslin’s other name—cheese cloth, and uses Parmesan for richness, strawberry for sweetness and citrus for zing, finished with a Parmesan stick while ‘Kanchipuram Silk’ a Scotch-based cocktail uses ghee, cardamom and cashew, topped with cashew foam and edible gold.
These well-researched cocktails continue to be on the PCO Mumbai menu because they go beyond storytelling and PR gimmickry. When you think of India’s wedding celebrations with their pre-event parties, it’s easy to imagine more creative bartenders joining this emerging cocktail trend. Sit back and let more mixologists ‘weave’ their magic.