Perhaps no other restaurant has carved a space for Gujarati fare in our hearts as much as Swati Snacks has! The iconic establishment became the go-to for fada ni khichdi and khichu, served hot! Makaan is a chip off that block with a contemporary take on traditional food.
And for those in Juhu, this new space is the solace of not having to traipse all the way across town for authentic Gujarati fare. Helmed by Karan Shah, (who headed operations at his aunt’s Swati Snacks) and Samyukta Nair of LSL Capital, it dishes up homestyle cooking at its best.
Like its name, the 58-cover restaurant is spacious and inviting, with its terracotta-washed interiors. There are no elaborate décor elements or art-laden walls; rather, the sparse take makes for a refreshing ambience. It takes off from the vision that Karan and Samyukta share: food should be simply about good taste.
For Karan it goes back to his growing-up years. “One of the reasons we opened Makaan was to relive a childhood memory of mine where my school friends used to come over to our place just to eat the Gujarati food that was served by my maharaj. After a point they called him directly and asked him to make pizzas and pancakes, pick up the food, and leave. I really miss that experience of someone feeling like they were entering their own home. I wanted a restaurant to try and replicate that feeling. Makaan is an attempt to recreate that hospitality, where we feed you till you drop,” he says.
It took a good two-and-a-half years to come about, as he admits: “Well, the first year was trying to get the courage to open a place on our own. Then when Dinesh Nair and his daughter, Samyukta Nair, came on board, it came into shape. We scouted for a location, and I only wanted Juhu, as I feel there’s a huge Gujarati population here that has not been served the food that they’ve grown up eating and would want to go out and eat.”
Makaan aims to fill that void. Inside, above the tables, bandhani lamp accents create an intimate setting. But food is the mainstay, so it makes sense to order right away, and if you are new to the fare, the servers promptly give an idea of what goes into each dish.
The first glance at the menu throws up a bunch of favourites like the Panki, but it makes sense to start with the dahi batata puri, which feels like an antidote to the current heatwave ensuing outside. Highly recommended is Locho, a cousin of Sev Khamni. It’s soft and steamed and had a sprinkling of spices and a dab of butter, sev, and onion. Mumbai’s khao-galli lovers will know the Pudla, famously served as a chilla at the Opera House. Makaan transforms it into a bread-coated savoury besan-flour pancake that is panfried to a crispy fried.
For those looking for something further, the satpadi roti with gatta shak, a curry of gram-flour dumplings, or even the vatana muthiya with pudina roti are filling options. Bowls of fada khichdi packed with ‘Swati’ taste and made for a nourishing addition.
The plan also includes seasonal specials, so ask for the Ponkh Bhel, that aims to make an appearance through the year with bajra and sweet corn replacing Ponkh (except winter when they will get the OG). And come December, you cannot miss the much-loved Undhiyu, which will have the Surti papdi, lilva beans, and kand, especially brought in from Surat, just like in the original recipe of the dish.
The drinks menu is just as desi, with Pudina Chhaas, Limbu Pani, and Tender Coconut Water with a dash of lime and sabza, and a zingy, gingery sugarcane juice, pairing well with the food.
Do save space for desserts. The Soft Serve Shrikhand takes off after another memory that SoBo-ites will resonate with (the softy at Right Place at Breach Candy that Karan too, has loved); here he gives it a twist with shrikhand. The Malai Palpua-Makaan style sees the dessert in a rolled-up version, with malai stuffed inside and drizzled with sugar syrup. Slightly on the sweeter side, yet it adds to the nostalgia beautifully!
At the end, Makaan leaves you feeling like you’ve been home—well fed and well looked after—something that can go missing in the trappings of fancy décor and theatrical tablescapes!