- Avarna Jain,
Chairperson RPSG Lifestyle Media
Designer Ashdeen Lilaowala wants more Young Brides to Wear Parsi Gara
With Navroz (Persian New Year) around the corner, we spoke to the custodian of Parsi textile Ashdeen Lilaowala, who recently launched his collection She Walks in Beauty, where he extensively does an archival research on the Gara embroidery.
Ashdeen’s new collection carries the quiet grandeur and heirloom quality traditionally associated with Parsi bridal wardrobe. Instagram
The timeless allure of the Parsi Gara sari is irrefutable. Known for its strikingly intricate threadwork and embroidery, often featuring whimsical motifs, the Gara textile is an heirloom cherished by Parsi women. It traditionally forms an integral part of a Parsi bride’s trousseau. Over time, Parsi Gara saris have witnessed a shift, with many brides trading them for embellished chiffon, georgette, and lace saris. With Navroz (the Persian New Year) around the corner, we spoke to the custodian of Parsi textile, Ashdeen Lilaowala, who recently launched his collection She Walks in Beauty. In it, he delves into the intricacies of Gara embroidery and his bid to revive this age-old textile.
1. Parsi Garas have long been associated with bridal wardrobes and family heirlooms. In your view, what makes the Gara such an enduring part of Parsi bridal identity?
AL: There was a time when Parsi Garas were an important part of the bridal trousseau. They slowly went out of fashion and brides traded them for embellished chiffon, georgette, and lace sarees. Our endeavour has been to get younger generations more interested and engaged in the Parsi Gara embroidery tradition in the bridal context and beyond.
2. Many Parsi brides today are rediscovering vintage Garas from their mothers’ and grandmothers’ wardrobes. How do you see younger brides engaging with this heritage today?
AL: As women from the community reconnect more and more with the Gara, the tradition is slowly cementing its relevance in Parsi weddings. In addition to sarees with Parsi Gara embroidery, young Parsi brides are also opting for lehengas that incorporate this aesthetic. We also see mothers and sisters of the bride and groom excited to wear Parsi Garas at weddings again.
3. Do you think the Gara is evolving beyond tradition to become a more versatile piece in the modern bride’s wardrobe?
AL: With more and more women discovering the beauty and uniqueness of the Parsi Gara embroidery and aesthetic, we’re seeing brides in India and the diaspora requesting custom lehengas and sarees hand-adorned with this beautiful embroidery for their big days. In addition, even the groom and close family members are all keen to wear outfits that resonate with the grandeur of an Indian wedding yet look different and are, therefore, drawn to Parsi Gara sarees and garments.
4. If a contemporary bride wanted to incorporate Gara embroidery into her wedding trousseau today, how would you suggest she style it?
AL: Parsi Gara embroidery looks best with classic diamond, pearl and gemstone jewellery that matches, complements or contrasts the motifs. Since Parsi Gara embroidery for bridal outfits is usually heavy, my advice would be to keep the rest of the look, in terms of hair and makeup, simple yet ethereal.
5. Your work often sits at the intersection of fashion and textile preservation. How important is it for designers today to document and sustain crafts like Parsi Gara embroidery?
AL: I think it’s very important. As we mindfully and responsibly adapt these crafts to the tastes of younger generations, we create opportunities for these beautiful textiles to proliferate, we engage with artisans who weave, embroider and embellish expertly and build continuity together.
6. Gara embroidery is incredibly labour-intensive and historically significant. What challenges do artisans face today in keeping this craft alive?
AL: It’s about getting younger generations of crafts people interested and engaged to work in the craft and to make it financially viable. We work to encourage entrepreneurship among artisan communities and clusters so they’re able to create pride, independence and prosperity for themselves.
7. Through your collections, do you see yourself more as a designer, a storyteller, or a custodian of Parsi textile heritage?
AL: I see myself as all three - a designer, a storyteller and a custodian of Parsi textile heritage.
8. If you had to describe the emotional significance of a Gara for a bride beyond fashion what would it represent?
AL: It is to be able to wear a unique, meaningful and beautiful lehenga or saree on your big day, handcrafted by artisans in an age-old textile tradition. It’s truly special and that’s why so many brides are working with us to create their dream bridal looks.
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