Dolly J On Celebrating Femininity And Inclusivity With Her Work

Dolly J’slatest showcase at the Hyundai India Couture Week, titled ‘La Vie en Rose’ enchanted the audience with its exploration of femininity and fusion of traditional and contemporary. The classic silhouettes rendered in diaphanous chiffons and metallic accents presented options for the trousseau of a bride who is unafraid to go all out with romance in her style choices.

The designer chats withManifestto discuss how her latest collection could translate to bridal wardrobes this season, her inspirations and more…

In Conversation With Dolly J

Manifest: Can you share some of your earliest memories of fashion with us?

Dolly J: Fashion has been a treasured family legacy, with memories of my mother and grandmother adorning themselves in elegant organza saris, exuding refinement and poise. They would complement these saris with stunning brooches, each one a masterpiece. My absolute favourite was my mother's whimsical poodle-shaped brooch, adorned with semi-precious stones, which would captivate me with its playful charm and elegance. Its allure was irresistible, drawing my gaze every time.

M: What have been some of the major milestones and challenges in your journey so far?

DJ: Embracing the digital era has been a thrilling yet demanding journey, as designers like myself must navigate the demands of transparency and openness. However, this era also presents a wealth of opportunities for innovation and creativity. I'm eager to explore novel textiles and reimagine timeless techniques, injecting fresh life into traditional craftsmanship. The Indian fashion landscape is currently a dynamic and vibrant tapestry, where heritage meets modernity and classic techniques converge with contemporary sensibilities, creating a truly exciting space for designers to push boundaries and make their mark.

M: Who is a ‘Dolly J’ bride?

DJ: The Dolly J bride is a true original, unapologetically embracing her unique spirit and love story. She exudes confidence and self-assurance, boldly paving her way to happiness and self-discovery. With unwavering fearlessness, she celebrates her individuality and refuses to conform, making her a true embodiment of empowerment and authenticity.

M: We loved ‘La Vie en Rose’ at the India Couture Week. How do you see this celebration of femininity and opulence will translate into bridalwear or trousseaus this wedding season?

DJ: ‘La Vie en Rose’ is a love letter to classic style, blending modern craftsmanship with eternal elegance. Rather than revisiting the past, our collection celebrates the allure of escapism, presenting beauty as a timeless haven. We're redefining bridal wear this season with intricate embroideries and flowing silhouettes inspired by floral beauty. Our collection features an array of breathtaking fabrics, like iridescent tissues, shimmering tulle, diaphanous chiffons, and custom organza with metallic lurex, in a palette of unexpected bridal hues, including vibrant oranges, teal blues, lush greens, and deep Prussian blues, all adorned with delicate laces. This shift away from traditional red has inspired us to explore a kaleidoscope of colours for the upcoming wedding season, inviting brides to embrace a fresh perspective on timeless elegance.

M: We saw corsets on the runway this season, along with a marriage between traditional Indian crafts and modern silhouettes. What would be your advice to brides or wedding attendees who want to embrace this fusion too?

DJ: The harmonious union of Indian traditional craft and modern silhouettes is a timeless combination that will continue to evolve and thrive. This season, we chose to pair the classic corset, a quintessentially Western silhouette, with traditional Indian craftsmanship, creating a look that exudes both vulnerability and strength. The resulting fusion perfectly captures the essence of the modern bride, who embodies experimentation and self-expression. By blending heritage and innovation, we empower brides to showcase their unique individuality and personal style, making this collection a true reflection of their modern spirit.

M:  What have been some of your major inspirations to create lately?

DJ: Recently, my creative spark has been ignited by a profound appreciation for romance, whimsy, and the splendour of nature. I've long been captivated by the realms of poetry, fairy tales, and mythology, where love, enchantment, and awe-inspiring wonder prevail. Intricate floral patterns and delicate motifs resonate with me, embodying the quintessential qualities of femininity, vulnerability, and resilience that I believe define the modern woman. Through my designs, I aspire to whisk women away to a realm of fantasy and dreams, where they can embody the protagonist of their own extraordinary narratives.

M: In your opinion, has there been a shift in the way brides approach shopping for their trousseau or their outfits for the wedding ceremonies?

DJ: The modern bride's approach to trousseau shopping has undergone a transformative shift, as she unapologetically celebrates her individuality and love. Gone is the conventional shy bride, replaced by a confident, self-assured woman who fearlessly forges her own path to happiness and self-discovery. Embracing vibrant celebrations, she boldly breaks free from traditional norms, seeking innovative, flowing attire that allows her to dance with unbridled joy and freedom, creating unforgettable memories. With an open mind and willingness to try new things, she seeks unique drapes and effortless, flowing silhouettes that enable unrestrained movement, perfect for dancing the night away with abandon and joy.

M: What motivates you every day?

DJ: I am constantly inspired by the women in my life, who embody a remarkable fusion of quiet strength and kindness in their everyday lives. Throughout my journey, I have been privileged to witness this extraordinary resilience and compassion in various forms, from my grandmother's guidance to my mother's unwavering support. Now, I see the same strength and kindness flourishing in my daughters. Moreover, the women I collaborate with daily bring a sense of serenity and determination to the workplace, leaving a lasting impact on me.

M: What would you say is the ‘Dolly J signature element’?

DJ: At Dolly J, we have consistently strived for exceptional craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail. Each piece is carefully handcrafted, emphasizing the smallest details to create truly unique works of art. Our distinctive approach combines traditional Indian embroidery techniques with modern silhouettes and designs, resulting in timeless yet contemporary masterpieces that embody the perfect blend of heritage and innovation.

M: What are some mistakes that you’ve learned from over the years? Is there something you hope becomes an indelible part of your legacy?

DJ: Through my mistakes, I've gained valuable insight - the importance of not going it alone. As a designer, it's tempting to micromanage every aspect, but I've come to understand the power of delegation and trusting my exceptional team. Looking ahead, I aspire to leave a lasting legacy marked by my dedication to masterful craftsmanship, preserving traditional techniques while infusing them with modern flair, and inspiring future generations to follow in my footsteps.

M: What do you hope people take away from your collections every time?

DJ: With each collection, I aim to impart a lasting impression of refined sophistication and deep cultural heritage, so that those who experience my designs are enveloped in a sense of enduring luxury and timeless beauty, inspired by the richness of our cultural traditions.

M: Who are your favourite artists or designers, internationally and domestically, at the moment?

DJ: While my tastes in art have evolved over the years, two artists who have remained constant sources of inspiration are F.N. Souza and Jamini Roy. Recently, I've become increasingly fascinated by the captivating works of Avijit Dutta, whose unique style and perspective have added a fresh layer of depth to my artistic appreciation.

M: What’s next for Dolly J?

DJ: We're thrilled to be in a phase of dynamic growth, venturing into new horizons, and pursuing strategic partnerships and opportunities that will amplify our brand's footprint and propel us towards even greater achievements, solidifying our position in the market.