Designer Kunal Rawal On The 'KR Man' And Being A Menswear Innovator

Renowned for his innovations in menswear, Kunal Rawal has carved a unique niche in the industry by effortlessly amalgamating tradition with modernity and redefining fashion narratives. From dressing the finest names in the Indian film industry including actors Ranbir Kapoor, Allu Arjun, Vicky Kaushal and Arjun Kapoor, and directors Karan Johar and Ayan Mukerji to name a few, his classic creations are now staples when it comes to festive wear no matter the occasion. However, grooms are the largest focus of every collection. But, one of the highlights of the designer’s recent success has been the popularisation of the song ‘Ishq Mitha’, which originated as theme music for his runway presentations but has now transcended into a mainstream party anthem. Collaborating with musical duo Akshay & IP, Rawal is elated by the song’s crossover appeal. "'Ishq Mitha’ is one of my favourite folk songs. The beauty of folk music is that it evokes a certain sense of nostalgia that everyone connects with in some way or the other,” he emphasises.

With a keen eye for detail and a commitment to creating timeless pieces, Rawal’s garments have become synonymous with versatility, functionality and wearability, making a timeless mark in the world of groomswear. But what sets them apart is his keen eye for inclusivity that remains pivotal to his brand. From casting diverse bodies and ages in his runway presentations to customising garments for various cultural functions, the Kunal Rawal ethos reflects an embracing of different traditions and personalities. He believes in fashion that caters to everybody, irrespective of geographical boundaries or style preferences. “Everything is centred around the product and its wearer. It is the method to our creativity. We put a lot of research into the ‘who, what, why and where’ for each creation. Every piece of customer feedback shapes our process and production,” elaborates Kunal Rawal on the philosophy behind his many creations that have become festive staples today.

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The designer takes pride in his label’s unique aesthetic. “Giving men an equal playing field in the world of occasion wear is our mission,” he emphasises. The atelier’s commitment to craftsmanship is unwavering and he iterates the importance of a methodical approach to creativity. By focussing on variety and reusability, Rawal remains future-forward while respecting heritage. The designer’s ‘Deconstructed Set’ has emerged as a signature category, redefining grooms wear in India. It’s a sherwani or tunic which appears like you are wearing a full-sleeved jacket, but is actually broken up into a sleeveless vest and shirt. Offering the illusion of a traditional sherwani with the comfort of a kurta and bundi, this innovation symbolises a seismic shift in men’s occasion wear, catering to modern preferences and functionality. The ‘dhoti pant’ seen on Ranbir Kapoor in Rawal’s latest runway presentation is another in a long line of constructional innovations.“We turned 15 last year and wanted to take on ideas we haven’t really touched upon in the last 15 years. Earlier, our dhotis, lungis or pathanis always had a lot of structure and form. Now, we are making the lungi a little more fluid for comfort and mobility. The ‘dhoti pant’ or ‘lungi 2.0’ gives you the opportunity to style it in many different ways. You can wear it to a traditional event and then go straight to a red carpet affair,” he explains.

“We have entered the era of specialisation, personalisation and customisation. We no longer define festive wear or luxury by the amount of one’s accessories. Men don’t need to add bling brooches, fancy feathers and other frills to a piece to make it stand out. The trend today is to keep it clean and simple yet impactful with just the smart assembly of a look. You want to have breathing room to really celebrate each garment and its intricate beauty. The idea is to make dressing up for the festive season effortless, in every way. The outfit should represent you,” he concludes. Here’s Rawal’s formula for perfect festive dressing: “I think if you have a few key staples in your wardrobe, you can easily put together several looks across many occasions and celebrations—from festive to weddings to on-the-go every day. One must-have is a pastel kurta set. You can add abundito it, mix and match, and create many different looks for day or night. A smart bandh gala is another ensemble every man should own. Worn open, it works great for a mehendi as much as it does for a sangeet or wedding event. And finally, slim pants like breeches are a very versatile piece to have. A beige or vanilla colour can be paired with multiple colours, and is a comfortable piece to carry you through long celebrations.”

Muses for Rawal have changed through the times, but the ‘KR Man’ represents a modern Indian. “They are men who are on the move, global in spirit, but also who love tradition and are proud of their unique cultural heritage. They want the best of both worlds—tradition, heritage and culture mixed with comfort, mobility and intelligent style. They want the techniques of yesteryear to exude that traditional luxury with the technological evolution of today,” he explains. A person that comes close to embodying the perfect muse is model and actor Dhairya Karwa, a young Indian who embodies the brand’s core principles of comfort, craftsmanship, a cool aesthetic and customer-centric designs. Karwa’s experimental style and willingness to embrace uniqueness aligns seamlessly with Kunal Rawal’s vision of effortless couture that combines comfort and style.

Expanding beyond menswear, Rawal’s foray into womens wear aligns with the brand's androgynous aesthetic. With a focus on tailored, gender-fluid clothing, this extension represents the brand’s evolution while staying true to its core vision. “Androgyny and gender-fluid clothing have always been a part of our brand aesthetic, and it’s something that has always excited me as a designer—but not the androgyny that is known for being over sized and as street wear,” he elaborates. Technological creativity also plays a significant role in the designer’s creative process. His fascination with textile innovation fuels experimentation, promising exciting future endeavours. The ‘glow in the dark’ kurta was just a glimpse; Rawal hints at more groundbreaking material and technology experiments in the pipeline.

Rawal’s inventiveness stems from a myriad of sources, from films and street style to personal interactions and his penchant for harmony. When asked how he comes up with what’s next, he explains: “For me, personally, inspiration has a lot to do with feelings. It’s not about where I am as much as it is about how I am feeling in that place. I have OCD for balance and symmetry to almost an exact mathematical calculation—so that also often factors in. I love adding my own little backstories to things, and that’s what makes it all more fun, exciting and fresh each time I create something new.”

Inclusive technology integrates seamlessly into his retail spaces: Each store is designed to display the house’s designs from hydraulic racks or conveyor belts for easy access. With the push of a button, the whole space clears out to give you an open-plan canvas for a special presentation, installation, showcase or event. Functionality is a strong brand pillar and that comes through in Kunal Rawal’s spaces, lending to his ethos as a label that caters to a younger audience for occasion wear that balances tradition and technology.

“I cannot wait to have my aesthetic be explored across different and unique product lines which range from apparel to the non-apparel side as well. Recently we have collaborated with Hakkasan restaurants on curating a special menu and Vanilla Miel pâtisserie on a line of chocolates. A little later in the year, you will see a candle come to life from the brand,” he elaborates. Looking ahead to 2024, Rawal teases an array of fresh concepts and perspectives in his upcoming collections, promising a blend of tradition and modernity that echoes the essence of the brand. “We have a lot of things in motion already, including a jewellery line. We are already working on our next show and a new collection. You will see a lot of fresh ideas, interesting viewpoints and intriguing concepts. It’s all very exciting and I can’t wait for all of you to experience everything we have for you in the pipeline,” he promises.

With inputs by Garima Gupta.

Photographer: Rohan Shrestha.

Stylist: Shaurya Athley.

Make-up: Mahima Wachher.

Hair: Sajan.