- Avarna Jain,
Chairperson RPSG Lifestyle Media
From Raw Mango To Dior, This Silhouette Is Everywhere Right Now
Hint: Balenciaga introduced it to the world!
L-R: Cocoon silhouettes from Armani Privè, Louis Vuitton, Raw Mango, and Rahul MishraGetty Images
Raw Mango recently showcased their debut collection at the London Fashion Week. The collection, titled "It’s Not About The Flower", paid subtle homage to India through different elements, while simultaneously having a global appeal. It featured a varied color palette, 3D embroidery, interesting appliqués, and a bunch a different silhouettes. One of these silhouettes that really caught our eye, was this egg-shaped silhouette that was cinched at the top, while flaring out at the middle, before it cinches at the bottom.
Raw Mango at London Fashion WeekRaw Mango
While the color of the dress is super vibrant, and the print is absolutely beautiful, our guess is that it is actually the striking silhouette that makes the look what it is.
The egg-silhouette (or the balloon silhouette, or the cocoon silhouette) is essentially the opposite of the hourglass silhouette. Instead of cinching at the waist and flaring out at the top and bottom, it cinches at the top and bottom, and flares out at the middle. While the hourglass silhouette traces its roots back to the Victorian Era, (where women were expected to have a tiny waist, fuller bust and fuller skirt), the egg-silhouette can be traced back to Balenciaga's iconic cocoon coat, which flared out ever-so-lightly at the middle, with narrower neckline and hemline.
Balenciaga's iconic "cocoon coat" from 1960Balenciaga
Lately, a lot of designers have been revisiting this beautiful silhouette. Like this stunning white dress from the Dior SS26 collection that is cinched at the bust, flaring our dramatically as it goes down, and finally ending in a narrower hemline.
Dior Spring Summer 2026Getty Images
Or this super dramatic Rahul Mishra look from their Couture Spring 2026 collection!
Rahul Mishra Spring Summer 2026Rahul Mishra
More recently, Aisha Rao showcased at the Lakmē Fashion Week in association with FDCI, and and we were head-over-heels in love with this beautiful strappy, halter-neck dress that featured a cocoon silhouette. It is somehow as simple as it is dramatic!
Aisha Rao at Lakmē Fashion Week 2026FDCI
Zimmermann Spring Summer 2026Getty Images
This rather niche silhouette is slowly finding its way into the mainstream. For example, Chase Infiniti recently wore this beautiful Louis Vuitton tulle dress at the 16th Governor's Awards, which had a tiny corset and a voluminous skirt with a cocoon silhouette.
Chase Infiniti at the 16th Governor's AwardsGetty Images
While one might think that this silhouette is better suited for the more-is-more aesthetic, you can always take a more subtle approach to the cocoon silhouette. Case in point: this Alaïa dress that Jessie Buckley wore for the Oscars Nominee Luncheon recently.
Jessie Buckley at the Oscars Nominee Luncheon 2026Getty Images
So, would you wear a swap your regular A-line lehenga or your fishtail lehenga for a cocoon-shaped lehenga this season?
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