From Achkans To Zari: The Essential ABC Of Indian Menswear

Menswear often gets a rap for not being diverse enough, especially when it comes to occasion wear. While womenswear is still overflowing with different elements and techniques, menswear is not far behind. In an interview with Manifest, designer Kunal Rawal had said, “Historically, womenswear has dominated the couture spotlight, with menswear seen as merely complementary.

Today, perceptions have transformed. We’ve dispelled generational notions about how men should dress, providing a platform for men to express their desires and unique personalities through their attire. Men are finally embracing couture and occasion wear, choosing outfits that resonate with their individuality.”

If you’re a part of the revolution, or merely someone who wants to tell an achkan apart from a bandhgala, read on to learn the ABCs of occasion wear for men…

Men’s Occasion Wear Lexicon

A - Achkan

An Achkan is essentially an overcoat that you can wear over a kurta. The layering ends up creating such a regal and elegant look.

A- Angarkha

An Angarakha is a wrap-around style kurta that, that adds a certain twist to the usual kurta style (especially if you’re looking to experiment this time around)

B - Bandhgala

As the name suggests,Bandhgalais a long kurta that is characterised by its mandarin collar and buttoned placket. It can trace its history back to the royal courts of Rajasthan.Bandhgalascan accentuate the shoulders so well, so if you’re looking to achieve the desi-academia aesthetic, then abandhgalakurta is the perfect option.

B - Brooch

The statement accessory has been seeing a revival recently. Celebrities like Shah Rukh Khan, Diljit Dosanjh, Ranveer Singh and Karan Johar have been seen sporting brooches at various events. It's a versatile accessory that can elevate your look effortlessly.

C- Churidar

Churidar are tight-fitted trousers that are worn with kurtas. Their key characteristic is the bunching of fabric that happens towards the ankle and hem of the pants.

D - Dhoti

The dhoti is an unstitched piece of cloth that's wrapped around the waist to form the bottom for traditional wear. Just like saris, its style, length and name depend on various regions and cultures across the country. The versatility of the garment is such that it can be paired with asherwani(keep reading ahead!) or a basickurtato fit the occasion.

E - Embroidery

In terms of embroidery, you can consider Resham Ari, Chikankari or Kantha, for instance, we saw Shahid Kapoor stunned in a Resham Ari kurta by Heena Kochhar at Manish Malhotra’s Diwali bash! And of course, it looked stunning!

J - Jodhpuri Suit

As the name suggests, the Jodhpuri suit originated in Rajasthan, and has been a symbol of royalty forever. It’s pretty much the Indian equivalent of the tuxedo. A shortbandhgalacoat accompanied by crisply tapered trousers is what makes up a Jodhpuri suit, and everyone from Ranbir Singh to Jaipur’s royalty, Prince Padmanabh Singh have been spotted wearing it.

K- Kolhapuris

If you've ever been to Jaipur, the markets are laden withKohlapurisof different kinds. The chosen footwear for the rulers of princely states, this is the Indian version of flip-flops, just much cooler (at least, we think so!) If you consider yourself a bit of an open-toed footwear kind of guy, then theKolhapurisare your BFFs.

M - Mojaris

Mojaris have origins from the Mughal era and are worn quite a lot in Rajasthan. So while those Loro Piana loafers have your heart, a solid dark, tanned Mojari can do so much for your Jodhpuri suit or for that Achkan you’re donning.

N - Nehru Jacket

Another great way of layering for festive occasions is a Nehru jacket, which is a half-sleeved, mandarin collar jacket that you can wear over your kurtas and accompanying pants. 10 points to you if you can guess the etymology of the word or the personality who inspired it!

N - Necklaces

Jewellery and makeup is for everyone. You can absolutely pair a plunging neckline kurta with a pendant necklace to make a statement. Just as Shah Rukh Khan wore an Amrapali Jewels pendant necklace with his Masculine Official outfit for the NMACC inaugural event last year or how Gurfateh Pirzada donned a kurta with the buttons dramatically open at the Lifestyle Asia Diwali party this year, you can to!

P - Pathani Suit

A Pathani Suit may resemble a regular kurta, but the top garment is generally longer, and the trousers that accompany it are lose and resemble salwars.

R - Rings

Signet rings, oxidized silver rings, diamond rings or plain gold bands are all a great way to spice up your outfit this festive season. Accessories in any sense elevate the outfit in a way that can really add some visual texture to your outfit, so don’t miss out on this!

S - Sherwani

A Sherwani is a long, fitted, button-down coat worn with dhotis, churidars, and straight-cut trousers. It is also usually characterised by a stand-up, closed collar.

S - Straight-cut pants

As we’ve been seeing wearing wide-legor straight-cut pants, insteadof the usualchuridaars (narrow pants) with one’s kurta has been trending this year. We saw Sidharth Malhotra, Orry and Vedang Raina rock wide-leg pants at Manish Malhotra’s Diwali bash so well!

V - V necklines

As we’ve mentioned above, that necklace pendant you’re considering wearing can be accentuated well with a V-neck kurta, or by carrying the kurta just a little more buttoned-down than usual.

Z - Zari

If you want to add another element of regalness to your outfit, try draping a Zari embroidered shawl on your outfit, it’ll have you looking like a literal king in your fit!

Cover image credits:

Editor: Chaiti Narula; Photography: Nitin Sadana; Creative Direction: Neha Ahuja; Styling: Palak Valecha; Hair and Make-Up: Bobby Uppal; Fashion Assistants: Tanushi Goswami and Smriti Mishra; Production Editor: Neha Ahuja; Location Courtesy: D'Monde Members; ClubModel: Parth Dutta; Sherwani: Mard by Abu Sandeep; Shoes: Modello Domani