Sunil Sethi: India Couture Week will go global in the next five years

India's most definitive celebration of couture returns, bringing together the country's leading designers to unveil collections that redefine the language of bridal fashion. From extraordinary craftsmanship to boundary-pushing silhouettes, this season's calendar promises theatrical presentations and standout creations that will shape the conversation around occasionwear for the months ahead. Ahead of the new edition, Manifest caught up with FDCI Chairman Sunil Sethi to discuss this year's biggest highlights, the landmark Hyderabad opener, the business of couture, and his vision for taking India Couture Week onto the global stage.

1. Manifest: India Couture Week is opening in Hyderabad for the first time this year. What led to that decision?

Sunil Sethi: People often tell us that fashion needs to keep evolving and that we must constantly do something different. Anamika Khanna was keen on staging a show at a heritage property because she rarely presents runway shows in that format. Since couture is our most prestigious platform, we started exploring venues that could match the grandeur of her vision. Most venues in Delhi are open-air spaces, but when we thought of a heritage property with the right scale and magnificence, Taj Falaknuma Palace immediately stood out. It has a timeless quality that aligns beautifully with couture. The idea initially came from Anamika, and together with our partners at Taj, we brought it to life. This inaugural show in Hyderabad is something I am extremely excited about.

2. M: Why Hyderabad? Is it becoming an increasingly important couture market?

SS: We are not looking at Hyderabad simply because it has a strong base of high-net-worth clients. It is already home to several leading Indian designers and has evolved into one of the country's most significant luxury markets after Delhi and Mumbai. There is a discerning clientele here that understands couture. Working with Taj has also been seamless. They understand luxury hospitality and have been wonderful partners in creating an experience befitting India Couture Week.

3. M: This year, Masaba Gupta and Arpita Mehta join the India Couture Week calendar. What made them the right additions?

SS: Every year, we introduce one or two new names to the calendar. At the same time, many of our established designers are taking Indian couture to international platforms like Paris Couture Week, so it is important that we continue nurturing fresh talent. Masaba Gupta has built an incredible brand and commands an enormous following. I've known her since she had just graduated from college, and watching her evolution has been remarkable. While she became synonymous with resort wear, her transition into bridal couture has been beautiful. There is tremendous anticipation around her India Couture Week debut.

Arpita Mehta, on the other hand, has been creating occasion wear for years and has dressed countless brides and wedding celebrations. Both designers have a strong retail presence and connect with today's luxury consumer. We want to give more opportunities to designers who are expanding the definition of Indian couture.

4. M: Are there any other new additions to this year's edition?

SS: Yes. Along with the Hyderabad opener, we are introducing new venues in Delhi as well. Tarun Tahiliani will present an off-site show, and we are also using The Pavilion and the Durbar Hall as fresh presentation spaces. It is important for us to keep reinventing the experience for both designers and audiences.

5. M: Rahul Mishra is presenting the closing show after another successful Paris Couture Week. What does that signify for Indian couture?

SS: We don't have a traditional finale. Rahul's success at Paris Couture Week has been phenomenal, and he continues to elevate Indian craftsmanship on the global stage. We are proud to celebrate designers who are proving that Indian couture belongs among the world's finest fashion houses.

6. M: India Couture Week has increasingly become a business platform as much as a fashion showcase. How is FDCI strengthening that aspect?

SS: For us, it has always been about the business of fashion. That's why we continue with the FDCI Wedding Weekend immediately after the runway shows. Buyers and consumers can experience the collections straight from the runway to the racks.

This year alone, we have already received over 2,000 appointments for the exhibition. We deliberately keep the event intimate and experiential because that is what sets us apart from other wedding exhibitions across the country. It is invitation-only, which creates a focused environment for serious buyers. Designers consistently return with substantial orders, making it a meaningful business platform rather than just a showcase.

7. M: Do you see India Couture Week expanding beyond Delhi in the future?

SS: Absolutely. Hyderabad is only the beginning. We are certainly exploring other cities where the audience, infrastructure and luxury ecosystem are aligned with couture. We want to grow thoughtfully without compromising the exclusivity and quality that define India Couture Week.

8. M: What is your vision for India Couture Week over the next five years?

SS: see more Indian designers spreading their wings internationally while remaining deeply rooted in Indian craftsmanship. Our designers are already making their mark across global fashion capitals, and I believe that journey will only accelerate. As for India Couture Week, I can certainly envision it travelling to an international city in the future. Indian couture today has a global audience, and our artisanship deserves to be showcased on the world's most prestigious platforms. That is the direction we are working towards.