Vaishali S' 'Satori' Is A Testament To The Luxurious Potential Of Indian Handlooms

In a world where handlooms often evoke traditional imagery, Vaishali Shadangule has redefined their role, crafting them into symbols of high fashion with her Fall-Winter 2024 Couture Collection, 'Satori.' Showcased at Paris Haute Couture Week, this collection paid homage to the vibrant legacy of Indian handlooms. Collaborating with the esteemed jewellery brand Tanishq and featuring actress Radhika Apte as the showstopper, Vaishali transformed the Solum venue under Pont Alexandre III into a realm where ancient weaving techniques meet contemporary elegance. Inspired by Zen Buddhism’s concept of sudden enlightenment, 'Satori' masterfully blends the timeless artistry of Indian handlooms with sleek, modern couture, creating a collection that is both a celebration of heritage and a step towards a refined future.

In conversation with Vaishali Shadangule...

For Vaishali S, her clothes are not just mere designs… She tellsManifest, “I always say it's not just fabric, you're exchanging energy with the weaver who's worked on that fabric for hours. That, along with the unconventional silhouettes and nature-inspired elements, makes it special.” Navigating the ever-so-dynamic world of design sans formal might have left her feeling like a fish out of water when she curated her maiden collection and launched her first store. But soon enough, her design sensibilities shaped the future that it is her present today. Instinct fuelled by familial style choices set the course for her design journey—makingchanderiher first choice of fabric.

Vaishali S’s Design Innovation

Today, it is Vaishali’s designs that seamlessly blend cultural heritage with contemporary aesthetics, making her a prominent figure in the realm of fashion. This led to the birth of her cording technique. “Cording offers delicate structure and shape.” She shares that when she began working with cording, the couturier noticed these shapes everywhere around her. “I saw similarities in the form of waves, fire, and smoke, on the barks of trees and realised everything has a flow and hence that is how we’re all connected.”

Born and brought up in Vidisha, a quaint town in Madhya Pradesh—her childhood played a pivotal role in shaping the brand’s identity. “I think everything started from there, my roots are very strong,” she says. Growing up in a home that seamlessly blended with nature, her mother's teachings always stayed with her. Throughout her childhood, she was imparted with one important lesson: “Nature isn't different but an extension of yourself—a vital part of your being.”

Her respect for nature and heritage coupled with a fated encounter with weavers ignited a spark of fascination and unknowingly kickstarted her wild ride into the world of design. Little did she know, this quirky passion would evolve into a promising career, making her one of the top 30 best designers in the world!

‘Naturally’ Conscious

Sustainability, now a key feature of the brand, wasn't even on her radar at the beginning. All she had in mind was not discarding things irresponsibly and giving respect to both people and nature. “I think the whole philosophy of the brand is, it's really rooted, you know. I can't avoid it. It is so deeply imbibed in me that I can't avoid it. I don't have to be conscious of that. It just comes naturally,” she adds.

For the discerning global bride

Her designs always have nature as the underlying theme that pleases both Indian and European audiences. Weddings are always beautiful and Vaishali describes the weddings in her hometown as simple, beautiful, and traditional. She says they are all centred around the bride and groom minus the fluff, the true essence is the union of two beautiful souls and the coming together of two families. “I’mMaharashtrian, and there is a tradition in our weddings where the mother gives the bride five hand-woven saris. I think it's a beautiful custom and I hope it's carried forward,” she says.

As for the bride, Vaishali describes her bride as a proud Indian woman, representing Indian craft while still being modern.

So what would an ideal Vaishali S bride look like? We asked. “I imagine, of course, beautiful textiles and the modern shape I can give them. Saris are always part of my collection, in many different ways. So when I imagine my bride, I see a red sari. And if you have seen me wearing a sari, you see how I drape my capes or different blouses. That’s how I would see my bride and not with glitter, sequins, or stones,” she responds.

Since cording is a distinctive trait of her brand, it was only befitting to be seen in wedding wear too. A careful look at her creations and you will see her signature technique in the form of flowers and other embroidery likeAariwork and cut dana work on beautiful hand-woven fabrics likeMaheshwarisilk,Banarasibrocade, and new age weaves.

A marriage of opposites

When asked about the art of balancing traditional and contemporary elements in wedding wear, the designer says, “The whole mission started for Vaishali S with handlooms. If I make only saris, I can't take this fabric to the world… This very thought kickstarted my journey. Even if you see the first show, you’ll notice how I've drapedChanderisin a different manner. I wanted to create a design language, which anyone can wear, wherever they are in the world.”

Manifesting groomswear and the rest of the cast!

"The groom, on the other hand, would be dressed in anAnarkaliordhotipants paired with a modern jacket, infused with a touch of Vaishali S," she shares. For the international bride and groom, she envisions the bride in her off-white coral gown and the groom in a tuxedo with some elements inspired by flora and fauna. For brides who don't want to opt for conventional ivory and red, jewel tones like purple, emerald, and cobalt can be great options. When it comes to coordinating looks, the couple should never be dressed in identical colours, according to the designer. If she wears red, shades of off-white and gold would be apt for the groom.

Family members always struggle when it comes to picking outfits for themselves, and Vaishali instantly responds and shares, "I envision the mother of the bride or groom in a beautiful sari and the father in a dhoti with a modern jacket and a turban."

The day is for the bride and groom, she says, hence the family must ideally opt for something that’s muted and understated.