- Avarna Jain,
Chairperson RPSG Lifestyle Media
Meenakari And Couture Are A Match Made In Heaven
Meenakari jewellery meets couture to serve heritage and drama
Meenakari And CoutureManifest
Some crafts quietly recede into history, and others continually reinvent themselves without losing their essence. Meenakari belongs firmly to the latter. Centuries old yet strikingly relevant, this intricate art of enamelling metal carries a timeless allure that feels both historic and refreshingly modern.
Jacket and pants, That Antiquepiece; necklace (worn as a headgear), Khanna JewellersManifest
Dress, Roseroom by Isha Jajodia; necklace, Khurana Jewellery HouseManifest
Kurta and jacket, Rajesh Pratap Singh; necklace, Kohinoor JewellersManifest
Shirt, skirt, and corset, all Rajesh Pratap Singh; necklace, Sunita ShekhawatManifest
Its origins trace back to ancient Persia, where enamel work adorned royal vessels during the Parthian and Sassanian empires (247 BCE–651 CE). As trade routes expanded, so did the craft’s reach, eventually reaching India during the Mughal era. Under Emperor Akbar’s patronage in the 16th century, Meenakari began its Indian journey, one that would soon evolve into something distinctly its own.
Dress, Vaishali S; necklace, Kohinoor JewellersManifest
Shirt, jacket, and cummerbund, all Shantnu & Nikhil; necklace, PP Jewellers by Pawan GuptaManifest
Corset, Farak; earrings, Isvari Jalandhar Jewellery House; tights, stylist’s ownManifest
Jacket, Studio Anatomy; Earrings, Sunita ShekhawatManifest
Jacket, Rohit Bal; necklace, PP Jewellers by Pawan GuptaManifest
The term Meenakari is derived from the Persian meena (heaven) and kari (craftsmanship), an etymology that mirrors its ethereal finish. In India, artisans absorbed and transformed the technique, infusing it with local motifs and richer palettes. Florals became more intricate, colours more vivid, and designs began to reflect a deeply Indian sensibility—lotuses, peacocks, and winding vines replacing Persian geometry with subcontinental storytelling.
Shirt, skirt, and corset, all Rajesh Pratap Singh; necklace, Sunita ShekhawatManifest
Jacket, Abhishek Sharma; necklace, P.C. Totuka & SonsManifest
Jacket, Falguni Shane Peacock; necklace, Sunita Shekhawat, tights and shoes, stylist’s own Manifest
Dress, Vaishali S; necklace, Kohinoor JewellersManifest
Rajasthan, particularly Jaipur, emerged as the epicentre of this evolution. Under royal patronage, Meenakari flourished not just as ornamentation but as an art form. Jewellery pieces were often designed with dual beauty—the front set with gemstones, and the reverse adorned with delicate enamel work, a hidden artistry meant for the wearer alone. Motifs carried symbolic weight, evoking spirituality, prosperity, and cultural identity.
For generations, Meenakari remained synonymous with tradition—anchored in bridal jewellery and heirloom collections. Its ornate character was closely tied to occasion and legacy. Yet, as fashion evolved, so did the craft. Today, Meenakari exists in diverse forms—from khula and band meena to the vibrant panchranga and soft gulabi styles—each reflecting its expanding design language while preserving its meticulous technique.
Jacket and pants, Réik; choker, Raniwala 1881Manifest
Jacket, Rohit Bal; necklace, PP Jewellers by Pawan GuptaManifest shoot
Jacket and pants, That Antiquepiece; necklace (worn as a headgear), Khanna JewellersManifest
Jacket, Falguni Shane Peacock; necklace, Sunita Shekhawat, tights and shoes, stylist’s own Manifest
What defines Meenakari now is thoughtful reinterpretation. Designers are translating its richness into lighter, more wearable forms—sleek earrings, delicate pendants, and refined rings. Softer enamel tones and cleaner silhouettes allow the craft to feel contemporary without losing its cultural depth.
Photographs by Amisha Gurbani; Styling by Palak Valecha & Akshay Kaushal; Hair and make-up: Nandini Arora; Models: Tenzin Chemi (Anima) and Anmol Bakshi; Fashion assistant: Khanak Kasana; Location courtesy: Begeterre, Gurugram
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