Raj Mahtani Couture Jewels Are An Ode to Indian Craftsmanship

Raj Mahtani Couture Jewels focuses on creating sensational pieces of art with intricate detailing while staying abreast with the increasing modern-day love for minimalism. Originally established as the house of Satramdas Dhalamal in the year 1880, the earliest collaborators of the brand were the reigning monarchs of the royal houses of Patiala, Baroda, Mysore, Nepal and Hyderabad. Years later, the fifth-generation scion, Raj Mahtani, has been tirelessly working to contribute to the legacy established by his grandfather.

His continuous efforts to attain perfection have made him collaborate with global icons like Anamika Khanna, Tarun Tahiliani, and Dianne von Furstenberg. For curating timeless and culturally rich pieces, the renowned jewellery couturier draws his inspiration from elements of Ottoman, Mughal and European architecture.

In a chat with Manifest, the jewellery couturier talks about his journey, the jewellery trends he foresees being big this season and more...

In Conversation with Raj Mahtani

Manifest: What inspired you to take up jewellery design as a career?

Raj Mahtani: In the beginning, I wanted to be a film star and was actively involved in arts, music, drawing and painting. The business of jewellery has always in my blood, it has been handed over to me through generations. I enjoyed looking at it as an art form. Because I never received any formal instruction in colleges and schools, it was difficult for a young boy like me to consider it as a career option. Jewellery making is a very interesting chapter in history, and then I do my fair share of acting also because I am constantly talking to clients. Many of my forefathers hugely inspired me. Satram Das Dhalamal, dated 1880, is the firm I inherited and it had a very positive impact on my career, I built on that and today we have all the who’s who coming to us.

M: What are some significant changes in bridal jewellery that you’ve seen in the past few years?

RM: The art of jewellery has certainly evolved. The whole concept of jewellery has changed and today. The jewellery that we're making is very different from the jewellery that most Indian homes had earlier. The West has had a very positive influence on the style of jewellery that we are styling today because in India people like big boisterous OTT jewellery. I think people have also gone into wearing lighter jewellery, the younger generation loves it. The significant changes in bridal jewellery that I've seen in the past few years is that brides really enjoy wearing large OTT pieces and the bride wants to be the Belle of the ball as it’s their wedding day. I think big and statement jewellery is definitely in. Also, a lot of brides are wearing emeralds today and secondly, white diamond jewellery is also very popular because it's an all-time classic.

M: What do brides look for today while shopping for their wedding jewellery? What jewellery trends do you think will be everywhere this wedding season?

RM: So brides today look for bespoke creations which set them apart. So they want an old diamond necklace styled with different elements like emeralds, rubies, sapphires and elements and things that you would want to be part of your soul. So brides today look for pretty much a variety in their jewellery, they want some table-cut diamonds, fused with some jadau along with a touch of some old vintage jewellery. The jewellery trends that will be everywhere this wedding season are emeralds, I think it's the flavour of the hour. Also, I think heavy jewellery necklaces and big earrings are definitely a trend which you're going to see a lot this season.

M: What advice would you give to the brides who are looking for their wedding jewellery?

RM: So the most common mistake that brides make while selecting their jewellery is they try to match it too much with their clothes. That for me is a big no-no because you're buying a legacy, you're buying stones that have been under the earth's surface for millions of years.

I think you have to give it the respect and the space that it requires in making it into a phenomenal piece of jewellery that you're going to wear your whole life.  Also, you're putting a lot of money into it. So you have to think of perpetuity, you have to think of future generations and then buy your jewellery but also buy it with the style that you think you would wear and therefore it should be slightly classical. Secondly, I think the brides do too much. It’s like trying to make a house and you buy furniture individually,  but in the end, how it all comes together is what matters. A serious piece of advice from me is that if you're looking for wedding jewellery please be very clear in your head about something that suits you individually. You should wear the jewellery and the jewellery should not wear you. Look at yourself in the mirror and if necessary take one or two things off before you walk into your wedding ceremony.