What's The Deal With BB Glow Treatments?

In a world full of unique and revolutionary beauty trends and treatments, BB Glow has been a hot favourite. Originating in South Korea, this treatment has gained popularity worldwide for its ability to create a flawless, radiant complexion.

This innovative procedure involves using microneedling to infuse a pigmented serum, similar to BB cream, into the skin. The result is an even skin tone, reduced appearance of blemishes and fine lines, and a natural, dewy glow that lasts for several months. However, the art of permanent makeup has not been without its share of controversy. We’ve chatted with our go-to skin care experts to find out the real deal behind this popular K-beauty treatment.

What is a BB Glow?

BB glow is a treatment in which a tinted serum is microneedled into the skin to give the appearance of wearing makeup continuously. “It aims to provide a semi-permanent foundation effect and improve skin tone”, says Delhi-based dermatologist Dr Kiran Sethi.

The process includes cleansing and exfoliation followed by the application of a numbing cream to ease the pain during the microneedling process. Using a microneedling device, tiny needles create microchannels in the skin. This stimulates collagen production and allows the pigmented BB serum to penetrate deeply. A pigmented serum, similar to BB cream, is applied to the skin. The micro-needling process helps the serum to be absorbed effectively, creating a more even skin tone and covering imperfections.

After the procedure, a soothing mask or serum is applied to calm the skin. Patients are advised to avoid sun exposure and follow a gentle skincare routine for a few days. The entire process typically takes about an hour, and multiple sessions may be recommended for optimal results. The effects can last several months and claim to provide a long-lasting, natural glow.

What are the risks and side effects of BB Glow?

BB creams contain non-degradable substances that can accumulate on your skin over time. When these substances are microneedled into the skin, they can potentially trigger an immune response, which may be prolonged. “There are a few risks associated with BB Glow, for instance, since tinted serums are microneedled into the skin, there's a high risk of allergic reactions and irritation because these ingredients are being introduced beneath the skin barrier where they don't naturally belong," says Dr. Sethi.

"BB Glow treatment does carry some risks and potential side effects, particularly if not performed by a trained professional or if proper aftercare is not followed," cautions dermatologist Dr Simal Soin. Since microneedling involves creating tiny punctures in the skin, there is a risk of infection if the equipment is not properly sterilized or if aftercare instructions are not followed.

"Some individuals might have allergic reactions to the pigments or other ingredients in the serum. Some people may experience acne breakouts after the treatment, especially if they have sensitive or acne-prone skin. Granulomas are small areas of inflammation caused by a reaction to the foreign substances injected into the skin," says Dr Soin.

Can BB Glow effects be reversed or removed?

“Removing BB Glow treatment is challenging because the tinted serums are embedded within the skin. Options for reversing its effects are limited and often ineffective without causing further damage or irritation. Since this treatment lasts about 30 days and is semi-permanent, in most cases it’s best to wait for it to fade out. However, think about it before you get it – the risk of the treatment doing more harm to your skin than its advantages is higher”, says Dr Sethi.

While reversing the effects of the treatment is hard, Dr Soin recommends a few procedures that might help. “Regular exfoliation can help speed up the natural shedding process of the skin, gradually reducing the appearance of the BB Glow pigments over time."

She also suggests that professional chemical peels can accelerate skin cell turnover, which may help to fade the pigment more quickly. "This should be done under the guidance of a dermatologist or skin care professional. Certain laser treatments, such as Q-switched lasers, can target and break down the pigments in the skin. This is a more direct approach but should be performed by a qualified practitioner to avoid further skin damage. Microdermabrasion is another mechanical exfoliation technique that can help remove the upper layers of the skin, potentially reducing the visibility of the pigment."

Treatments that replicate the BB Glow

If you’re looking for treatments that provide similar results to BB Glow—such as brightening, evening out skin tone, and giving a radiant complexion, Dr Soin recommends the following:

Chemical Peels

These treatments use acids to exfoliate the top layers of skin, improving texture, tone, and brightness. Options range from mild (like glycolic acid peels) to more intensive (like TCA peels).

Micro-needling

This procedure involves creating tiny punctures in the skin to stimulate collagen production, improve skin texture, and reduce scars and pigmentation.

Laser Treatments

Various laser treatments, Q Switch lasers, fractional lasers, and photo facials can target pigmentation, redness, and uneven skin tone while stimulating collagen production for a more radiant complexion.

Microdermabrasion

This mechanical exfoliation technique removes the outermost layer of dead skin cells, improving skin texture and tone, and promoting a brighter appearance.

HydraFacial

This treatment combines cleansing, exfoliation, extraction, hydration, and antioxidant protection, resulting in clearer, more hydrated, and glowing skin.

Topical Treatments

Products containing ingredients like vitamin C, retinoids, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid can help brighten, even out skin tone, and improve overall skin health. Consistent use of high-quality skincare products can achieve similar results over time.

“Instead of BB Glow, work on a skin care regimen that is tailored to your skin type, makeup products designed to enhance complexion without penetrating the skin, or professional makeup application for temporary coverage. Don’t hesitate to speak to a dermatologist or your skin doctor if there are aspects of your skin that you’re unhappy with! No one needs semi-permanent make-up," adds Dr Sethi.

Currently, individuals considering BB Glow treatments should be aware that, as a non-FDA-approved procedure, it lacks the regulatory oversight that ensures standardized safety, efficacy and long-term effects.