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AI generated summary, newsroom reviewed
For generations, the mangalsutra has been one of the most recognisable symbols of marriage. Traditionally composed of black beads strung together with gold and finished with a distinctive pendant, it has carried meaning far beyond its aesthetic appeal. Yet, like the modern Indian bride herself, the mangalsutra is evolving.
AI generated summary, newsroom reviewed
AI generated summary, newsroom reviewed
The modern mangalsutra may look different, but its traditional foundations remain firmly intact. Black beads, gold and the central pendant continue to define the piece, with designers finding new ways to reinterpret them.
Anurag Gupta, Artistic Director, APARA DISUM Jewellery, says, “The black onyx beads on a gold chain, the central pendant, that core is still very much there. What’s changing is how it’s being reimagined. The way the beads are arranged, the pendant designs themselves, there’s a lot more creativity and modern thinking going into it now.”
Regional influences are also being revisited. Traditional mangalsutra styles from across India are inspiring contemporary designs, allowing brides to connect with their heritage while choosing pieces that feel distinctly their own.
“Regional cues often come in through custom requests rather than the standing collection. A bride will bring a family heirloom or a regional reference and we’ll rework it in a more contemporary setting, often with diamonds complementing the traditional black beads,” says Vaibhav Karnavat, Founder, House of Quadri.
For the bride who prefers understated jewellery, minimal mangalsutras are an obvious choice. Think delicate gold chains, smaller black beads and discreet diamond pendants that work just as easily with a sari as they do with a white shirt or workwear.
House of Quadri has responded to this demand with pieces such as its Eternal Sparkle and Trinity Radiance styles, designed as minimal, everyday diamond mangalsutras.
There is also a growing willingness to rethink the traditional format altogether. Sunil Kothari, Founder and Managing Director, Keemti, says, “Instead of asking only, ‘What kind of mangalsutra should I wear?’, they are asking, ‘How do I want to wear this symbol?’”
This has opened up possibilities including delicate necklets and mangalsutra bracelets, allowing the symbol to coexist with individual style rather than dictate it.
For brides who want their mangalsutra to feel more like contemporary fine jewellery, diamonds offer a natural evolution. A single diamond pendant can become the focal point of a delicate black-bead chain, while more elaborate diamond designs can turn the mangalsutra into a statement piece for the wedding day.
“Diamonds are helping change the perception of what a mangalsutra can look like, allowing the mangalsutra to enter the language of contemporary fine jewellery which is more refined, more versatile and much easier to style beyond traditional Indian wear,” says Kothari.
The result is a piece that retains its symbolism while speaking to a more modern jewellery wardrobe.
For the bride who wants her jewellery to tell her story, personalisation is becoming central to the design process. Initials, birthstones, zodiac motifs, meaningful symbols and customised pendants are increasingly finding their way into mangalsutras.
“Personalisation isn’t an add-on anymore, it’s expected. Engraving comes standard across our collection, and brides regularly go further: initials worked into the pendant, a birthstone in place of a diamond, a small symbol added to a classic silhouette. It is tradition, with a signature,” says Karnavat.
It is a shift that reflects the larger evolution of bridal jewellery, where pieces are increasingly selected for their emotional significance as much as their traditional value.
For the bride who wants maximum wearability, versatility is key. Designers are seeing more requests for mangalsutras that can be worn independently, layered with other necklaces or styled with both Indian and Western outfits.
Kothari says, “Take for example a mangalsutra necklace that can be worn as part of a layered necklace look for a brunch or styled more traditionally for a ceremony. A mangalsutra bracelet that can sit alongside a watch or other bracelets and feel completely natural with Western dressing.”
His test for a contemporary mangalsutra is simple: “Would you still want to wear it on a random Tuesday?”
If the answer is yes, you have found a piece that works beyond the wedding.
Minimalism may dominate the everyday conversation, but statement mangalsutras still have their place. For brides who want their wedding jewellery to make an impact, elaborate pendants and heavier designs can become an important part of the bridal look.
The solution for brides concerned about everyday wear is increasingly to invest in more than one piece.
“We’re seeing more brides commission a lighter, diamond-forward piece for daily wear alongside a more elaborate one for ceremonial occasions, rather than expecting a single mangalsutra to do both jobs,” says Karnavat.
The approach allows the wedding-day mangalsutra to be dramatic while a lighter companion piece becomes part of the bride’s everyday jewellery wardrobe.
Celebrity weddings continue to influence bridal jewellery, with designers receiving reference images soon after high-profile weddings are unveiled.
“The moment a celebrity wedding photo goes public, designers start getting reference images from clients within days. It’s not that they want an exact copy, but certain details, a particular pendant shape, a certain way the chain sits, suddenly become the thing everyone’s asking about,” says Gupta.
Diamond-led, minimal pendants have particularly gained popularity, but Gupta cautions brides against replicating a celebrity look wholesale. “A celebrity’s mangalsutra is designed for her, her styling, her personality. We take the reference as a starting point and then shape it around what actually suits them.”
There is, however, a line between modernising a mangalsutra and stripping away what makes it recognisable.
Gupta advises brides against going “too minimal, to the point where the mangalsutra loses its identity altogether.” As he puts it, “There’s a fine line between modern and unrecognisable.”
The idea is to simplify and evolve the design without removing the black beads, gold or other elements that carry its symbolism.
If individuality defines the contemporary mangalsutra, its future looks even more fluid. Gupta predicts that lab-grown diamonds, rose gold, solitaires and gemstones will become increasingly prominent, alongside designs that can transform into bracelets or standalone mangalsutra bracelets.
Yet, despite all this change, one element remains constant.
“There’s something about the classic gold chain with those black beads woven through it that just holds its ground no matter how many trends come and go,” says Gupta. “Everything else around it can evolve, but the black bead is the anchor.”
And perhaps that is precisely what makes the mangalsutra’s evolution so compelling. Its meaning remains constant, while its form makes room for the woman wearing it.