Is Protein And Carb-Based Skincare The Next Big Thing?

When it comes to beauty, skincare ingredients have evolved largely over time. From using soapwort plants, clay, essential oils and sand as skin cleansers to present-day body washes and face washes formulated using alpha-hydroxy acids and hyaluronic acids, we have come a long way. But the best kind of evolution has been where science has helped enhance ancient or historically successful beauty practices. 

For instance, milk is a dynamic ingredient that has been used in beauty rituals for centuries. From Egyptian empress Cleopatra’s legendary milk and honey baths to Indian ubtans blended with whole milk, most of us are familiar with local and home-oriented uses of the product in skincare. A similar example can be found in the popularity of rice as a beauty secret among Asians. Both rice flour and fermented rice water are said to benefit the skin and hair in multiple ways. Cut to the present day, both milk and rice have found their way into modern-day skincare with the help of science and technology.

While milk protein has actively been a part of skincare and haircare for over a decade, rice-based skincare has become increasingly popular since 2021, when people rediscovered its advantages. Science has found effective ways to reverse engineer and simplify nutrients in kitchen staples to make them hero ingredients in skincare. Rice is essentially a carbohydrate, and many haircare products include carbs as a main ingredient. The same can be said for proteins, whether that’s whey protein, collagen, silk protein or elastin, the beauty industry has found excellent uses for them all.

But How Do Carbs And Proteins Benefit The Skin?

Proteins are said to have restorative properties. Especially milk and whey protein, which is known to nourish the skin. Other forms of protein such as collagen and peptides are known to help the skin remain supple and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. 

“The effectiveness of whey protein depends on formulation, concentration, and absorption. Smaller peptide forms are more effective. Those with dairy allergies should avoid these products. Whey protein offers hydration, repair, and anti-ageing benefits, though more research is needed to confirm its efficacy compared to established ingredients,” says cosmetic dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad to confirm the possibilities of protein in skincare.

In recent years, we’ve seen the rise of excellent peptide-based products. Products such as The Ordinary’s Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides 1% Serum, or Charlotte Tilbury Charlotte’s Magic Serum Crystal Elixir have been successful examples of how well the ingredient can serve our beauty regimes. We’ve even seen some great protein-based products come along; Neude Skin’s Milk Peptide Face Toner and Clinique’s Even Better Eyes Dark Circle Corrector (both of which consist of whey protein) have seen good responses!

As for carbohydrates in beauty products, the journey seems to be quite similar. Carbs are said to help the skin stay hydrated and act as an emollient as well. Not only this, but carbs are speculated to be an effective ingredient in haircare too. Products such as Color Wow’s Dream Cocktail Carb-Infused Leave-in Treatment, Epitight’s Thicc Hair styling spray and Bare Anatomy’s Ultra Smoothing Shampoo for Dry and Frizzy Hair all claim to add body to and repair hair.

“Carbohydrate-based hair products are gaining popularity for their ability to enhance hair thickness and volume. These products often include polysaccharides, which act as film-forming agents. When applied to the hair, these agents coat each strand, creating a protective layer that increases the diameter of the hair shaft and gives the appearance of thicker, fuller hair.

Additionally, carbohydrates can function as humectants, attracting and retaining moisture in the hair. This hydration not only improves hair elasticity but also prevents breakage, contributing to healthier, more resilient hair. The use of carbs in a mousse format also allows for improved styling, as the coating enhances texture and provides better hold,” says Delhi-based skin expert and aesthetic doctor Geetika Mittal Gupta.

This leaves me wondering whether going back to the basics is the best beauty “secret” to know of. Carbs and proteins have been a part of our skincare and haircare rituals for centuries, though yes, science has helped us access the better, more effective forms of these ingredients. We’re even told that these are the most crucial nutrients for our bodies, as food (unless of course, you have an allergy or a medical condition that prevents you from processing them). Perhaps sustainable skincare and haircare is all about simple, accessible and obvious ingredients.