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There was a time when full-coverage makeup, thick eyebrows, intense eyes, and heavily lined lips were a thing… altogether, simultaneously. Then we moved into the ‘clean girl aesthetic’ era, where the no-makeup, makeup look paved the way for a fresher, more nuanced approach. And while we’ve restored our love for brighter, poppier colours and have sidelined the muted nudes, current modern makeup has found a sweet spot between minimalism and maximalism, and water-based makeup lies bang in the middle.
Think fresh skin, sheer complexion, and enough coverage to make you look like you, without holding back on creativity. Water-based makeup has become a go-to for exactly that effect, promising lightweight textures and a more skin-like finish.
“It basically has water as one of the main ingredients in the formula, which gives it that lightweight, fresh feel on the skin,” explains celebrity makeup artist Aafreen Petiwala. “Silicone-based products usually have ingredients like dimethicone that give a smoother, more blurred finish, while oil-based formulas tend to feel richer and more nourishing.”
For this makeup artist, the difference ultimately comes down to how the makeup feels and behaves on the skin — water-based products tend to look more skin-like and less heavy, and that’s probably what makes them tick with the modern makeup approach.
Celebrity makeup artist Shradha Mehta-Bhatija agrees that this formulation’s appeal lies in its fresh finish. “Water-based products are basically just more hydrating products,” she says. “They are great for people who want dewy, fresh-looking makeup.”
The biggest takeaway is the elusive ‘your skin but better’ effect the formulation has to offer. “It is how lightweight they feel while still giving you a beautiful, fresh finish,” says Petiwala. “They’re great when you want your skin to actually look like skin rather than looking heavily made up.”
And before you think this is just about foundation, it isn’t. The makeup artist loves water-based formulas for foundations, skin tints, blushes, and even concealers, especially when she wants to achieve a fresh, natural makeup look. “They’re especially nice for everyday makeup and for that effortless finish.”
It’s a one-size-fits-all kind of formulation! Petiwala says it is particularly suited to normal, combination, and oily skin, particularly if you don’t enjoy the feeling of heavy makeup. Additionally, it can work on dry skin, too, provided the complexion is properly prepped and moisturised.
That said, she doesn’t recommend choosing a product based on the label alone. Your skin type, the finish you want, and the overall formula matter more than just that one ingredient itself.
Mehta-Bhatija notes that while silicone-based makeup is more long-lasting than water-based, it tends to feel heavier than water-based. “Silicon is great for creating a flawless makeup look and oil-based makeup works best for mature skin.”
“Skin prep is everything,” advises Petiwala. “Start with well-moisturised skin, but don’t overload it with too many skincare layers. Let each product settle for a little while before moving on.”
Secondly, when it comes to application, both artists advocate restraint. “Start with applying a little product and build on depending on how much your skin needs,” adds Mehta-Bhatija. Remember to work in thin layers rather than putting a lot of product on at once.
“Pressing and stippling the product with a damp sponge or a soft brush usually works better than aggressively rubbing it into the skin,” says Petiwala.
If your makeup is pilling or becoming patchy, the problem may not be your technique but may actually lie in layering. “If possible, keep your base products compatible in texture,” she suggests. “Sometimes pilling happens simply because two formulas don’t work together.”
For blush and tints, she recommends keeping the same light-handed approach — tapping the product in with fingers or a sponge, rather than dragging it across the skin. Remember, the goal isn’t maximum coverage, but actually to make skin look like skin.