Every creation of Madhav Agasti represents an amalgamation of creativity, style and finesse, here’s what to know about ‘Bollywood’s first men’s costume designer’...
Image Credit: Instagram Post collage
Designer Madhav Agasti has been behind dressing some of the most affluent names in our country. The menswear designer has dressed politicians such as Sushil Kumar Shinde, Sharad Pawar and MM Joshi as well as designed costumes for notable characters such as Mogambo (played by the late Amrish Puri) in Mr. India, in 1987. In fact, the designer has worked on some of the greatest movies of our time such as Hera Pheri (2000), Andaz Apna Apna (1994), Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge (1995), Ghulam (1998), and 36 China Town (2006).
There is a lot to Madhav Agasti and his bespoke designs, the couturier began his career by travelling to different cities such as Aligarh, Lucknow and Chennai and learning about their specialities and how to apply the knowledge he acquired to his craftsmanship. Madhav Agasti is known to create sophisticated, suave and culturally rich garments such as bandh-galas, sherwanis and suits for men that will leave a lasting impression. Regarding Indian wear, the luxury designer likes to inculcate embroidery such as Zardozi, and subtle surface embellishment for Jodhpuri bandh-galas and sherwanis while working with textiles such as khadi, wool, cotton, velvette and silk. It seems like the bespoke craftsman creates garments that ooze power and regality. Which is why we decided to speak to the designer about his work and experiences over all the wonderful years he has created incredibly elegant designs and garments. Read on…
Manifest India: Can you share an anecdote or the most memorable feedback you’ve ever gotten from any celebrity or public figure that you’ve dressed over the years?
Madhav Agasti: I recall an anecdote with the late Honourable President of India Shree Pranab Mukherjee, at the time of his swearing-in ceremony. His relative had got an outfit for him to wear for the ceremony instead he chose an achakan that I made for him. It was indeed an honour and testament of the relationship we shared for so many years.
M: You are credited for creating the visual image of one of the most enduring pop culture figures in India: Mogambo. Can you tell us what went behind creating the costume for the iconic character and what was the brief given to you for the same? What has been the most memorable response to the character’s costume design?
MA: Creating Mogambo’s costume was a challenge. The brief was to design an outfit that exuded power, luxury, and eccentricity. I took some inspiration from an army general’s uniform and chose rich fabrics, bold colours, and statement accessories. The most memorable response was when Amrish Puri (the actor who played Mogambo) said, “Madhav, Mogambo Khush Hua!” Which later became the most iconic dialogue of the Indian cinema.
M: What three tips would you give to men who are learning to invest in formal menswear, right now?
MA: My tips for men investing in formal menswear are:
– Invest in quality over quantity.
– Understand your body shape and find styles that flatter it.
– Don’t be afraid to experiment and try new things.
M: You’ve been working with bespoke menswear for so long, what is your opinion about Gen Z’s approach towards tailoring and bespoke outfits?
MA: Gen Z’s approach to tailoring and bespoke outfits is refreshing. They’re open to experimenting and pushing boundaries.
M: This leads us to our next question, Gen Z has also found a way to combine streetwear and Indian wear interestingly, is there a foreseeable future where we’d see Madhav Agasti’s designs amalgamate elements of streetwear in its designs?
MA: Yes, I foresee a future where Madhav Agasti’s designs incorporate streetwear elements. We’re already exploring ways to blend traditional craftsmanship with modern styles.
M: Clearly Gen Z and millennials are the biggest consumers of fashion right now, How do you think the current generation has impacted and influenced bespoke menswear?
MA: The current generation has brought a new level of enthusiasm and experimentation to bespoke menswear. They’re driving innovation and creativity.
M: And, how would you describe Madhav Agasti’s clients?
MA: My clients are discerning individuals who value exclusivity, quality, and craftsmanship. They’re often leaders in their fields, with a strong sense of personal style.
Having worked in over 400 Bollywood films, Madhav Agasti believes in stitching his outfits from scratch to avoid counteracting loose fits, droopy shoulders and client dissatisfaction. His passion for cuts, fabrics, textures and style has made him a renowned name in the fashion industry. The designer’s label Madhav’s Men’s Modes quickly became synonymous with bespoke menswear that stood out because of its attention to detail and tailoring.
This year, at the FDCI Manifest Wedding Weekend, the designer showcased his work with real gold and platinum embroidery. He also brought forth new variations in tuxedos that will surely appeal to all to-be grooms and wedding attendees. In a conversation with Manifest, the designer said, “My designs focus on identifying the symbiotic relationship between a particular shade of colour and fabrics, and this differentiates the brand Madhav Agasti from the rest of the designers”.
Neha Karra is a junior writer, who loves to discover and try the latest trends in style, food and beauty. When she is not curating articles, you will find her playing with kids, reading books, painting and practising Mandala Art. View Profile
