This one has James Bond’s seal of approval! If you recall The Man with the Golden Gun (1974) it famously showed characters played by Tony Leung and Maggie Cheung sharing a meal amid vintage booth-style seats and that classic Hong Kong-style steakhouse charm. While you may not have those stars as dining companions, the high-end Cantonese cuisine sure can be yours. It is what the new Jùun, at Eros Theatre building, is based on.
Perfect for plotting your pre-wedding night out with your better half or the extended family, this 48-cover restaurant brings together comforting Cantonese fare and a well-designed cocktail menu in an upscale space.
And ever since it opened doors in June, it’s been packed! This, after eight months of brainstorming by hospitality heavyweights Ruchyeta Bhatia and Amit Sharma (of Poetry by Love & Cheesecake), Sherwyn Noronha, Founder of Design Circle and his sister Samantha, founder of Bard & Butter. They wanted to build a new Cantonese house in South Mumbai, rooted in Hong Kong's food culture; nothing over the top, but centered around a simple belief: knowing when to stop is considered just as important as knowing what to add.
The SoBo eatery is frequented by families, couples on a date, girl squads and friends who just want to catch up. The vibe distinct: elegance and space in the dining area, with a bar that does not overpower all else. The interiors, by Design Circle, draw inspiration from the character of Hong Kong's colonial homes, leading to this clean, minimal look.
You ensconce yourself into the blue upholstered seating, alongside wood lattice panels on the wall, a long bar and open kitchen ahead and soft lighting above. The references to HK are also played up well with a wall illustrated with its iconic double decker trams, the Tian Tan Buddha, and its festival scenes.
But food grabs attention once you settle in, so over to that.
A decade ago, if you pondered over bringing Cantonese into South Mumbai, you might have felt Chinese fare would edge that out, with the food being so prevalent around the city! But with people being more well-travelled over time, this is an idea whose time has come. Unlike the spice explosion that other Far Eastern cuisines present, Cantonese offers a milder and more welcoming palate feel.
The culinary experience begins with the Nine-Condiment Box, featuring house-made sauces like scallion and Shanghai Lime, served in a wooden chest alongside crispy wonton chips. Since it’s a rainy afternoon, soup seems like a comforting thought and I go with the Superior Broth, a flavour-dense Cantonese stock with prawn dumplings, and the intense umami base sets the tone for the start.
To accompany that, go for the Lacquered Mock Duck & Toasted Almond Salad Glazed mock duck, served crispy, with pomelo giving it a bright, citrusy flavour.
Executive Chef Mahesh Pattyam (who was previously with Sesami) helms the kitchen and he’s clear that the steamer is where the magic lies. The choice is extensive, from Crystal Veg & Black Truffle dumplings to the Garden Chive & Silken Tofu served with a smoky-sweet Chinkiang black vinegar. What is truly masterful is the Prawn & Lychee Ball with Yuzu Chilli, a lovely contrasting bite with minced prawn around a whole lychee in a sesame crust, crispy outside and juicy within!
Paying an ode to the city’s alcobev aficionados, is Jùun’s cocktail menu, created like a hardcover book. It follows a concept where Jùun is referred to as the House and inside, the cocktail listing is structured like a building, moving from Street Level to Mid Floor, Penthouse and Off Grid, each floor exploring a different relationship with the city with drinks like Pear & Elderflower and the Sesami Martini. Mocktails include a Berry Fizz, a non-alcoholic Picante with green apple, but I go for the Beetrootini, served in a martini glass, with honey and pineapple being a good foil to the slight bitterness of beetroot. It’s perfect for when you don’t want an overtly sweet drink.
Anyone who has dined in Hong Kong will immediately recognise its parallel to good ol’ Mumbai’s iconic dabba (tiffin carrier) culture—known as faan gaak in HK. Jùun has brought that out beautifully! The three-tiered Veg and Non-Veg Jùun Tiffins have daikon and chive puffs, litchi prawns, a pleasantly browned Turnip cake and glazed char siu bao buns; a good concept that works as a sampler for trying the classics off the menu.
Portions are large here with shareable servings, but make place for the extensive main course. Wok enthusiasts could go for the Braised Eggplant in Black Bean Sauce, with the charred eggplant making for a slow-braised and silky bite or the Steamed Garlic Enoki Mushroom with pillowy Pumpkin Mantao buns, great for pass arounds! Fish lovers would enjoy the Steamed Red Snapper in Fermented Black Bean Sauce, slightly sweet, served with a drizzle of smoky sauce.
Rice is prepared at least five ways here, from Asparagus and Egg to Spicy Edamame. To pair with the food, I go for the Chicken & Water Chestnut Claypot Rice, and when it arrives piping hot, the server scrapes the charry rice bits off the pot base, which is where the magic lies.
It's worth trying the desserts. In keeping with the mild palate, the Spiced Chai Pear, set on a chilled scoop of ginger cheesecake, shuns major sweetness, making for a warm and aromatic meal ender. Hong Kong’s iconic egg tart also makes its way here and Jùun does a trio with three fillings— silky classic custard, dark chocolate ganache and fresh pineapple cream; a nice ode to the port city that has semblances of our own.
On integrating the cuisine into the city’s mosaic, Bhatia says, “What drew us to Cantonese cooking was its confidence. The ingredient comes first, the technique supports it, and the restraint is what makes it memorable.”
A trendy bistro as much as a celebratory space, Jùun might soon be the neighbourhood restaurant that gets earmarked as a repeat favourite. It’s apt for the pre-wedding meetup, where you build new relationships as you take your tastebuds on a new trail!