With celebrity brides like Aditi Rao Hydari and Sonakshi Sinha opting to apply alta for their weddings, the traditional dye is having its moment in the spotlight…
While mehndi continues to remain popular among South Asian brides, the ancient red dye Alta is not left behind. Some of the most iconic Bollywood brides of recent times have gone with Alta for their weddings, like actor Patralekha Paul who paired it with her shankha poola (traditional bengali bangles) for the nuptials, or Sonakshi Sinha and Aditi Rao Hydari who adorned the red dye on their hands and feet for their weddings. More recently, we saw Sonam Kapoor wearing the traditional red dye on her hands to accompany her crushed silk lehenga from the shelves of Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla for the Ambani Ganesh Utsav.
Back in 2023, designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee made a case for Alta while unveiling his collection titled ‘Heritage 2023’ to highlight the timelessness, elegance, and cultural and traditional significance of the colour red.
Later in March 2023, designer Karan Torani used vermillion and Alta in his campaign, ‘Mithya’ to showcase the colour’s association with female goddesses and its symbolism in the never-ending cycle of life, death and fertility.
“Alta has always had a deep, cultural and traditional significance due to its association with female deities, says henna artist Usha Shah “It is mostly popular among the brides of West Bengal, Uttar Pradesh and Bihar as there is a lot of goddess worship in these regions, and hence, actor Patralekhaa Paul and Sonakshi Sinha chose to pair it with their wedding ensembles.”
Alta is derived from the Sanskrit word ‘Alaktaka’ meaning ‘red juice’. It is also called Mahavar and Lakshaya Rasa, due to its association with Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth. It was traditionally prepared by soaking the roots of the Alkana Tinctoria plant which is also known as Ratanjot in hot water to extract the deep red hue and then later mixing it with fitkari (alum) and haldi (turmeric) to create the vibrant red colour.
The earliest evidence of the Alta can be traced during the Vedic period dated 1500 BC to 600 BC. There has been ample evidence of Alta being mentioned in religious scriptures like Mahabharata and Abhigyan Shakuntala by Kalidas, where the female protagonists apply Alta onto their hands and feet to attract their lovers. Moreover, Alta also forms an important part of the solah shringar, the 16-step makeup process, described in the Kamasutra, written by Malinaga Vatsyayana.
With time, the popularity of Alta no longer remained confined to the regions of Bengal, it forms an integral part of the bridal makeup of Newari Brahmins of the Nepal region. Moreover, it was also used by the brides of Nepal and Bangladesh during their wedding ceremonies. While it is known as Alta in India, it is called Ala in the regions of Bangladesh, Nepal and Pakistan.
“The usage of paints to decorate one’s body dates back to the Palaeolithic period”, says Archaeologist Dr Sonika Sandhu, “Although the usage of the colour red by prehistoric humans is very prominent in certain excavations, it is difficult to say that it is particularly Alta. The first mention of the term Alta or Alaktaka can be found in the Vedic period when society and culture began to form and various kinds of fine arts and classical dances like Odissi, Bharatanatyam and Mohinattam began to flourish. The classical dancers mainly known as Devadasis used it to enhance the shapes of certain mudras while showcasing Abhinaya or enactment’.”
She adds, “When culture and goddess worship became more prominent, Alta was used in ceremonies like Griha Pravesh and Biddai, where the newlywed bride used to dip her feet in the red hue and enter her in-law’s house. As women were also known as ‘Stree Dhan’ and were seen as a symbol of prosperity, a woman entering her in-law’s place with her feet dipped in Alta signified that the female goddess of prosperity Lakshmi had entered the house.”
Although Alta is prominently used in the regions of Bengal, Bihar and Uttar Pradesh, its popularity is no longer confined to these regions, here’s why you should also consider adorning it for the upcoming wedding season.
Alta has a thin, breathable and lightweight texture which dries off quickly. It is a blessing in disguise for brides who don’t want to spend too much time on their makeup, “Alta has a water-based texture and does not hold too much moisture in its composition. Hence, it dries quickly without the need for the bride to sit for long periods, unable to perform basic movements”, says Mumbai-based celebrity makeup artist Aafreen Petiwala.
Alta has a very non-complex texture which washes off easily without involving any harsh chemicals on the skin. “The lightweight nature of alta and its easy solubility tends to cause smudging when it comes in contact with oils, spices or chemicals”, says bridal make-up artist Gomit Chopra. But if you’re worried it’s going to transfer onto your clothes and other stuff it comes in contact with, the makeup artist has a hack that can help you out, “One easy way to prevent Alta from transferring is to start by applying a thin layer of the product on your skin. Another way to prevent the smearing of the red hue is to generously spray makeup setting spray over the red dye once it has dried, this process locks the paint and prevents stains and transfer.”
Due to its rich and striking presence, red complements almost all skin tones and undertones without overpowering the natural beauty and contours of one’s limbs and hands. “Alta, is economical and due to its rich hue, almost instantaneously arrests the viewer’s attention and diverts the gaze from any pigmentation and chipped nails. Thus, it complements all skin tones, textures and even age groups,” says Aafreen Petiwala.
Alta is made traditionally as per the Charak and Sushruta Samhita, the ancient textbooks of Ayurveda are believed to have soothing and stress-relieving properties. “The traditionally made Alta generally consisted of Betel leaves, slaked lime and turmeric which has stress relieving, anxiety-reducing and potent anti-septic superpowers, says, former dean of Delhi University, Department of Ayurveda, Dr B.N. Sinha. He adds, “As the feet have maximum nervous and sensory endings and receptors, the traditionally prepared Alta, made with these ingredients was used to annihilate pre-wedding jitters”.
“Yes, traditionally prepared Alta can have amazing stress relieving benefits”, says Dermatologist Dr Indu Ballani, “But it can still cause rashes and itchiness in people with super sensitive skin. Therefore, my advice would be to kindly try a patch test before you decide to apply the dye on your palms or feet”.
If you are looking for ways to pair Alta with your ethnic ensembles this season, here are a few ideas to take inspiration from…
For those opting for a minimalistic look, you can take a cue from Aditi Rao Hydari’s crescent moon-shaped design that she applied to her feet for her wedding. As the crescent moon emerges as the ‘It’ shape of the season, this Alta design is apt for those wishing to go demure.
The traditional Alta design worn by Sonakshi Sinha for her wedding festivities is a favourite of classical dancers of Bharatnatyam, Odissi and Mohiniattam, the sun mandala design usually includes a giant red circle in the centre with fingertips painted in red on both the hands and the legs. Thus, for those who wish to make an elegant and bold statement, this design is the one to opt for.
For those finding it difficult to choose between Alta and Mehndi, a fusion of both works wonders as it presents the best of both worlds without one element overpowering the other.
The traditional Bengali design combines the red paint with meagre traces of white sandalwood powder to create a contrasting effect.
Neha Karra is a junior writer, who loves to discover and try the latest trends in style, food and beauty. When she is not curating articles, you will find her playing with kids, reading books, painting and practising Mandala Art. View Profile