Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla began their design journey in 1986 with a singular mission: to create the finest, without compromise, cutting corners, or shortcuts. Any couture devotee would vouch that the design house's bridal work is a direct reflection of that philosophy. Their commitment to reinvention is relentless—it has never been enough for the duo to merely revive techniques; they have devoted themselves to reimagining tradition and pushing it towards new heights of finesse.
For four decades, the brand Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla has revived and restored embroidery traditions into heirlooms of enduring luxury—Chikankari, real mirror work, Zardozi, and Resham among them. As the couture house marks its 40th year, capping a run of masterpieces that redefined Indian fashion, it is set to unveil its signature maximalism as never before. With 2026 marking this milestone, the duo—long regarded as cultural ambassadors for India—is preparing to open a flagship store that narrates their story through design and decor. The property, christened 'Mubarak Baug', is a golden fantasy world conceived in the most cherished corners of their imagination, where architecture dissolves into pure dreamscape. Located at the iconic Framjee Cawasjee Institute in South Mumbai, it spans 20,000 square feet of gilded grandeur.
Reflecting on the milestone and the philosophy behind it, the duo say, "Because we are untrained, nothing is impossible. We want this store to be a symbol of the undeniable fact that dreams do come true. When we were just starting out, our parents gave us fifty thousand rupees each and told us that was all we would be getting from them. We spent the entire amount buying fabrics and never looked back. Forty years later, our most important message to aspiring designers is to always believe in themselves."
The AJSK design ethos has always been grounded in authenticity and ethical creativity, with hand-craftsmanship at its very core. The designers have long championed artisans, fighting for their rights and recognition. "We revere the beauty, value, and contribution of our artisans. When we work with a heritage technique, our mission is always to elevate it to a higher, never-seen-before standard of excellence. This was our mission when we began work with Chikankari, and it is the same whether it is Zardozi, mirrorwork, Resham, Bandhini, Patola, or Ajrak. We work closely with karigars to empower them with superior skills so that their creativity is enhanced manifold," says Khosla.
It is a deeply collaborative process, and the designers see their karigars as central to their expression. "There is absolutely no question of undertaking any experimentation that does not meet the ethics and ethos of our brand. Our commitment to authenticity and quality is always paramount. Our brand is founded on these principles—there can be no compromise or cutting corners," says Jani.
When the designers began working with Chikankari, it was with the conviction that they could reinvent it to a brand-new standard. In a stroke of genius, the duo transformed it into couture and put it on the ramp, making it the most coveted bridal wear on the red carpet. "This is our design process—an unshakeable belief in the power of craft to become the highest art form. Our work and journey with karigars is absolutely joyous and soul-satisfying. It is a continuum of devotion and ceaseless learning," says Khosla.
For any true artist, one's design sensibilities do not change; they are embedded and form the very soul of one's expression. AJSK's work is rooted in its own sensibilities, and the house creates to serve its own aesthetics. "That ethos is set in stone. We have always designed for ourselves and never catered to an external audience," says Jani.
The style arbiters remain unfettered in their imagination, with a gargantuan appetite for beauty at its most detailed and complex. "Maximalism is in our blood; it will always dictate our creativity," says Khosla.
Haute couture globally may have grown increasingly edited and pared-back, but Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla does not believe in creating everyday clothes when it comes to couture. "Edited and pared-back are tragic words in our book. They reek of a lack of imagination, shortcuts, and compromise. As for bridal couture, it is, by its very definition, the most supreme occasion wear. There is no bigger or more important occasion than a wedding," says Jani.
The label's recent campaigns have often featured non-binary and LGBTQ artists, and the designers delight in diversity and difference. "Beauty is always more beautiful when it is inclusive and speaks in multiple voices. Inclusivity is a core value to us, as artists and as humans. There is nothing more pitiful than discrimination. We don't believe in living small or living scared. We dream bigger than narrow definitions of beauty and being. Inclusivity matters for the world, for communities, and for creativity. Fashion is ultimately a form of art and self-expression, and it must be inclusive if it is to live up to its full potential. To exclude is to remain incomplete. We want and expect more for this world," says Khosla.