How The Modern Groom Is Rethinking Wedding Dressing Beyond The Sherwani

For Sarah & Sandeep, wedding dressing has never been about excess for the sake of occasion. With Sartorial Weddings ’27, the luxury menswear house turns its signature language of precision tailoring, geometric silhouettes and thoughtful detailing towards the modern wedding wardrobe.

Their new collection introduces the house’s distinctive silhouette called Triunity, something that sits between a Bandhgala and a sherwani. Across the collection, embroidery is understated, the focus is on good construction and pieces are designed to be worn on wedding ceremonies to cocktails, dinner to after-parties. The result is a wardrobe that falls under the category of Indian occasionwear without being bound by its conventions.

As wedding celebrations become longer and more style-conscious, the Indian groom is also moving beyond the traditional sherwani. Sarah & Sandeep’s latest offering reflects that shift, with tailored separates, tuxedos, ceremonial shackets and signature Wedding Bombers joining the Triunity. In conversation with Manifest, co-founder Sandeep Gonsalves talks about the changing definition of grandeur, the rise of quieter luxury and why today’s groom is looking for wedding clothes that are more functional.

(Manifest) Sartorial Weddings ’27 is built around the idea of a quieter approach to ceremonial dressing. What do you think has changed in the way today’s wedding consumer defines grandeur?

(Sandeep Gonsalves): I think today’s consumer sees grandeur in confidence rather than excess. That’s really the core ethos behind this line. It’s less about wearing the heaviest outfit or having the most embroidery, and more about wearing something that’s beautifully and thoughtfully made, impeccably tailored and, most importantly, feels authentic to who you are.

There’s a lot more confidence in being understated today. A really well-cut garment, a beautiful fabric, an interesting silhouette or a detail that you only notice up close can have far more impact than something that is simply loud. For me, that’s a much more modern way of looking at luxury.

(M) Do you think we are seeing a shift away from overtly embellished wedding wear towards pieces where tailoring, construction and craftsmanship do more of the talking?

(SG) For our clients, definitely. Clients today appreciate the details you don’t immediately see: great construction, beautiful fabrics, exceptional fit and the amount of thought that goes into making something work beautifully on the body.

I think craftsmanship has become much more subtle and, personally, I think that’s a sign of true luxury. When you look at a garment and can appreciate the cut, the fabric, the finishing and the way it sits without needing it to scream for attention, that’s when it becomes really special.

(M) The Indian groom’s wardrobe has expanded dramatically over the last few years. Beyond the traditional sherwani, what are you seeing men gravitate towards today?

(SG) Men are definitely far more experimental today. The traditional sherwani will always have its place, but we’re seeing men embrace bandhgalas, tuxedos, tailored separates and silhouettes that blend Indian and Western influences much more comfortably.

There’s also a lot more awareness of personal style. Men don’t necessarily want to dress according to what is expected of a groom anymore. They want options that reflect their personality, their lifestyle and how they actually like to dress. I think that’s a very positive shift.

(M) Your Triunity silhouette sits somewhere between a Bandhgala and a sherwani. What does its popularity tell you about how the modern groom wants to dress?

(SG) The Triunity was created for men who wanted the elegance of Indian dressing without feeling overdressed. It was essentially our interpretation of an Indian alternative to the formal three-piece suit, but with more utilitarian benefits built in.

Its popularity tells me that today’s groom wants something modern, refined and effortless. The Triunity sits somewhere between form, function and aesthetics, which is probably why it has resonated so strongly. You get the structure and elegance of tailoring, but there’s a practicality and ease to the way you wear it.

(M) With destination weddings becoming multi-day celebrations, how do you see the groom’s wardrobe evolving?

(SG) Every event now has its own mood, so the wardrobe has become much more considered. You might have relaxed tailoring for a welcome dinner, something more fashion-forward for a cocktail, statement eveningwear and then a more timeless look for the wedding itself.

It’s really about building a complete wardrobe rather than just finding one great outfit. We’ve also introduced signature Wedding Bombers and Shackets as part of the new line because we wanted to offer something design-forward for those lighter functions as well. There’s so much happening across a wedding now that men have the opportunity to actually have fun with what they wear.

(M) Are you seeing brides move beyond the traditional lehenga, sari and sharara vocabulary towards more versatile separates and unconventional silhouettes?

(SG) Definitely. Brides are looking for pieces that feel personal and that can actually live beyond the wedding. Tailoring, versatility and contemporary silhouettes are becoming just as important as tradition.

Our brides who come to us for Power Suits are not a huge audience, but they’re a very confident group of women. They know exactly what they want and they’re not necessarily looking to dress like a traditional bride. I think that’s interesting because it shows how much the idea of what bridal dressing can be has expanded.

(M) What are some of the biggest shifts you’re noticing in Indian wedding dressing?

(SG) I think there’s a definite move towards quieter luxury, better tailoring and much more personal expression. People want pieces that they’ll still love years from now, rather than something that was simply designed to photograph well on the wedding day.

We also see a lot more customisation now, and interestingly, those requests almost always come from something personal: a sentimental memory, a family reference, a particular lineage or something they’ve experienced. Those are the details we really enjoy working with because they make the garment feel like it belongs to that person.

(M) Has social media changed what clients ask for, and do you think there’s now a counter-movement towards longevity?

(SG) Social media has definitely changed the way people discover and consume fashion. There’s endless inspiration available now, which is great, but I also think it has made people more conscious of wanting to stand apart.

Personally, I think social media has become a little overdone. There’s a tendency to see the same references repeated again and again, and I think clients are beginning to recognise that. More and more, we’re seeing people ask for something that feels uniquely theirs, something they won’t look back at five years later and feel was simply a trend.

(M) Since 2012, Sarah & Sandeep has built its identity around symmetry, minimalism and Indian-Western fusion. How has that philosophy evolved?

(SG) The philosophy really hasn’t changed. It’s just become more refined over time. We’ve always believed that great design doesn’t need to be loud, and that belief has remained at the centre of what we do.

Today, I think our clients come to us specifically because they want something timeless, understated and beautifully crafted. As we’ve evolved, we’ve become even more obsessed with the micro details, the things you might not notice immediately but that a discerning client will always see and appreciate. That’s where a lot of our design language lives today.

(M) What does luxury mean to you today?

(SG) For me, luxury is ultimately about how a garment makes you feel. Beautiful fabrics, craftsmanship and fit all matter, of course, but if someone still loves wearing that piece years later, then that’s real luxury.

I think the best clothes become part of your life. They hold memories, they make you feel confident and they don’t become irrelevant just because a trend has changed. That’s really what we’ve tried to achieve with the new Sartorial Wedding Line, pieces that feel special for the occasion but have enough longevity and character to be loved well beyond it.