ICW 2026: Dolly J’s ‘Brāhm’ Makes A Case For The Quintessential Red Bride

Day 6 of the FDCI Hyundai India Couture Week saw Dolly J’s showcase, which felt like an ode to the quintessential Indian bride, who feels more is more, The collection, titled ‘Brāhm’, draws inspiration from Brahma Kamal, one of the Himalayas' rarest flowers. 

The set of the show featured massive installations of mountains, as a reference to the Himalayas. The music of the show was intense and fast paced, centered around religious songs. The show opened with a series of classic red bridal lehengas, as an ode to the quintessential Indian bride. These were all classic lehengas with A-line silhouettes, intricate gold embroidery, and long veils. The bridal looks were followed by a set of super glam, blingy cocktail looks, including sleek gowns, corseted shararas, concept saris with thigh-high slits, and even strapless ball gowns. One element seen across a lot of these looks, was fringes. We saw fringes hanging from the hem of the pallu, from the bust of the gowns, and from the bralettes. Another trend we spotted in a lot of these looks is ombré. A lot of classic lehengas, corseted lehengas with fishtail skirts, as well as pre-draped saris featured ombré colour transitions. 

The colour palette takes inspiration from the different moods of the Himalayas, from dusk to dawn. We saw a lot of sunset hues, including deep reds, rust, wine, soft pink, and copper.

This was followed by a set of contemporary menswear looks that felt a little more relaxed, and a little less blingy. They featured easy silhouettes and intricate prints, with a colour palette of black, tangerine, and rust. These included bandhgalas and shorter jackets. We saw some interesting elements across these looks, like pussy bows and tassels. While these looks were perfect for a mehendi or cocktail (or even a sufi night), we saw another series of groom looks for the wedding. With an ivory colour palette, these included sharp, traditional sherwanis, paired with relaxed pants.  

The show was closed by Vaani Kapoor, as she walked in wearing a deep wine-coloured set with an off-shoulder blouse and a matching fishtail skirt with a thigh-high slit.