In Her ‘Ishtyle’: How Ishita Mangal Is Reclaiming Regional Fashion

Creator Ishita Mangal in conversation with Manifest about ‘Ishtates of India’, an impactful, educational series that connects people through the lens of fashion. With her series Ishtates of India, she reimagines the way we look at clothing—not just as something to wear, but as a living archive of history, culture, and community.

In this conversation with Manifest, Ishita opens up about the spark that inspired the project, the layered process of research, and the stories hidden in drapes, stitches, and heirloom jewellery.

Manifest: 'Ishtates of India' beautifully showcases the diverse regional ensembles of India. What was the initial spark or idea that led you to conceptualise the series?

Ishita Mangal: “To be honest, the idea was born out of my own fashion FOMO. I often wondered, ‘Why do Gujarati women wear a Rabadi ghagra, while women in Ladakh wear the Brokpa Mulan Chinaloo?’. Fashion in India isn’t just about aesthetics; it is history, geography, climate, craft, and community all stitched into one outfit. And I wanted to tell those stories but in my ‘Ishtyle’—Ishita’s style.”

M: Could you walk us through your process of researching and sourcing information about the fabrics, weaves, and traditional clothing of each state you feature?

IM: “My team and I start by identifying a state or community I want to explore. And then the process begins… We speak to various people to gain insight, like artisans, designers, shopkeepers, and elderly women who have been wearing these traditions for years. We read obscure blogs and books, scroll through anthropology papers, and visit weavers, local markets, and museums. The research is layered. It is not just about the outfit, but also why it is made the way it is, who wears it, and how it has evolved.”

M: Beyond the visual appeal, what deeper significance do you believe traditional Indian regional dresses hold in terms of cultural identity and heritage?

IM: “Clothing is memory. It tells the unique tales of the region…its weather, soil, festivals, gender roles, and even politics. A tribal woman’s jewellery isn’t just an accessory; it is a statement of identity, protection, and, sometimes, even rebellion. Every embroidery stitch, every drape style, carries the DNA of a culture passed on for generations. When people ask, ‘Is this fashion or costume?’, I tell them, it’s neither. It’s heritage, living and breathing.”

M: Were there any particular states or regional dresses that presented unique challenges or surprises during the creation of the series?

IM: “Many! The Brokpa ensemble from Ladakh was a big surprise. Their jewellery is immaculate, and their headgear weighed as much as me [Laughs]. And each piece has a purpose tied to belief systems I hadn’t even heard of. The challenges that we usually face are about access, as many of these stories aren’t documented. You need to be there on the ground, talk to people, and earn their trust to understand the meaning behind the pieces.”

M: In a world increasingly leaning towards fast fashion, how do you see series like 'Ishtates of India' contributing to the promotion of sustainable fashion and the support of local artisans?

IM: “Fast fashion thrives on forgetting. ‘Ishtates of India’ is about remembering. Remembering who made your clothes, the materials they used, and the legacy behind it. When people connect with the story behind their outfit, they value it more, and that naturally leads to slower, more thoughtful fashion. Also, I make it a point to credit and promote the artisans, the clusters, and the hands behind the craft. We need to flip the narrative: sustainable fashion doesn’t have to look beige and minimalist. It can be bold, beautiful, silver-laden, and full of gajras.”

M: Lastly, what was the most fulfilling aspect of creating this series?

IM: “When people told me that they had no idea this existed in our country, and then chose to wear those pieces of heritage with pride. Young girls messaged me saying they wore a Kosa sari to their college farewell because they saw my video. That’s the dream. It’s not just content, it’s connection. As someone who has always loved fashion but also wanted to find meaning in it—this series has been my love letter to India, one outfit at a time.”