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JJ Valaya Finale Imagined the East Through a Regal Lens At ICW 2025
The couturier marked 33 years in fashion with a journey across the east...
Couturier JJ Valaya closes the 18th edition of India Couture WeekFDCI
At India Couture Week 2025, JJ Valaya marked 33 years in fashion with a show that felt more like a closing ceremony than just a finale. Titled East, the 60-look collection drew from journeys of cultural histories, how the West once imagined the mystique of the East. He blended influences from the Far East, the Balkans, and India itself.
The show opened with monks walking the runway, setting a ceremonial tone before models took over in Valaya’s signature maximalist craft. The designer is known for his deep engagement with history and ornamentation, using silks, velvets, brocades, and sheer organzas to build silhouettes that were structured yet soft, with occasional architectural flourishes and rich layering. The colour palette ranged from sepia and gold to oxblood, midnight, and ivory, anchored in luxury.
A mid-show performance by Kathak dancers bridged the collection’s narrative, threading movement into the fabric of the evening. Actor Mugdha Godse, cricketer Abhishek Sharma, and model Rahul Dev made appearances on the ramp, while Rasha Thadani and Ibrahim Ali Khan closed the show.
Set against the backdrop of terracotta elephants and textured stone, the runway felt part temple, part theatre. There were no gimmicks, just the precision of a couturier who knows how to stage a finale. Valaya’s East wasn’t just a reference to geography; it was a meditation on memory, imagination, and the craft that connects them.
FDCI
The collection unfolds in three evocative chapters: the layered romance of the Balkans, the tranquil refinement of the Far East, and the grandeur of India, culminating in a visual narrative that bridges time and geography.
“EAST is my ode to a time when the East evoked wonder and fascination across the world. To close India Couture Week with this collection is both an honour and a reflection of our ongoing legacy - one where history and couture continue to walk hand in hand,” said JJ Valaya
The collection features a rich palette of antique neutrals, spice hues, and deep bridal reds, rendered in luxurious fabrics like silks, velvets, brocades, tulle, and organza. Meticulously crafted for both men and women, the ensembles embody JJ Valaya’s architectural precision and couture detailing, blending age-old Indian craftsmanship with a global sensibility.
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