Manish Malhotra Is Finding New Forms Of Expression

Manish Malhotra continues his penchant for creating fairy-tale fantasies with opulence, innovation, and an eternal belief in magic. With his own jewellery line and film production company, his singular vision finds new forms of expression.

“It started with my childhood obsession with films,” says Manish Malhotra. And what a journey it has been. A fascination with fashion’s power to emote on screen catapulted a career that has led to new milestones, decades since he began.

When we speak, he’s in London mere moments after showcasing his ‘World Collection’ at Harrods, becoming the first-ever Indian couturier invited to present at an exclusive private shopping showing at the iconic emporium. He traces the moments behind the magic in a conversation spanning time and memory.

Once Upon A Time

Malhotra’s stardom began with cinema. While he was a model in college, a boutique salesperson at 19, and a designer at age 21, it was his work in Rangeela (1995) that truly made a mark, as it changed the landscape of fashion in film.

Urmila Matondkar’s tangerine skater dress, shimmering gold look, and denim and crop tops heralded a new era of styling on screen, one where fashion told a story.

So prominent, it inspired a new category of Best Costume Design at the Filmfare Awards.

From his first film, the 1990 family drama Swarg starring Juhi Chawla, we went on to style for over a thousand movies, each outing a pivotal pop cultural landmark: Priyanka Chopra’s gilded 'Desi Girl' blouse in Dostana (2008); Karisma Kapoor’s athleisure wardrobe in Dil Toh Pagal Hai (1997); Kareena Kapoor Khan’s pastel sharara from Kabhi Khushi Kabhie Gham (2001) and later her Patiala salwar and kurtis in Jab We Met (2007). His work with Alia Bhatt in Rocky Aur Rani Kii Prem Kahaani (2023) further cemented his ability to continually push the envelope.

“Each phase of my career has been a learning experience, encouraging me to evolve and explore new creative territories. I’ve always been an optimistic person and I believe it’s the love for what you do that truly gets you where you want to be. Over the years, I’ve realised the importance of staying true to one’s identity while embracing change.” His experience in cinema has been so impactful, even for him, that it inspired the “fifth phase” of his creative journey: Stage 5 Productions.

“After an enriching career in costume design, couture, jewellery and makeup, it felt like the right time to embrace my lifelong passion for filmmaking. It perfectly aligns with my broader vision, allowing me to merge storytelling with my love for fashion and cinema. This expansion honours the industry that has given me so much." Fittingly, among his first films is a biopic of legendary actor Meena Kumari.

Happily Ever After

What makes a Manish Malhotra bride? On-screen, it is a vision that breaks stereotypes while upholding tradition. Think of Shilpa Shetty’s cobalt blue zardozi ensemble in Dhadkan (2000); Anushka Sharma’s long-trailed dupatta and red lehenga, with salmon pink and peach highlights, in Ae Dil Hai Mushkil (2016); Preity Zinta’s cream bridal gharara in Veer Zara (2004)—each an ode to craft and character.

His favourites? “Alia Bhatt’s lehenga in Rocky Aur Rani Kii Prem Kahaani—vibrant, traditional yet modern, beautifully captured her character’s essence. Kajol’s bridal ensemble from Kuch Kuch Hota Hai (1998) is another cherished creation.”

From screen to real life, his approach remains similar. “Bridal couture has been one of the most rewarding aspects of my career. Indian weddings are all about tradition and celebration, and designing for brides allowed me to dive deeper into India’s rich textiles and timeless craftsmanship,” he says.

It’s a testament to his relevance, almost 35 years as a costume designer and 20 years as a fashion designer, that modern brides continue to turn to him. Kiara Advani (born the year after Malhotra made his film foray) chose eight Manish Malhotra outfits for her wedding celebrations, including the soft rose lehenga for the big day. Encrusted with 30,000 Swarovski crystals and featuring Indian floral and Roman architectural influences, it took 3,700 hours to make.

In the same year, Parineeti Chopra chose a hand-embroidered ecru lehenga with metal sequins, nakshi work, and vintage gold thread embroidery. “It’s always amazing to style celebrities. Most of them have become dear friends, making the process even more enjoyable. Each one brings a unique personality, and that’s what makes the experience so special.

His soft-spoken manner belies his influence on brides at home and away. When London-based bride Syra Sanghera saw a crimson lehenga from his Nooraniyat collection on the couturier’s Instagram, she knew it was the one.

“During the lead-up to my wedding, I tried on similar lehengas in stores around London but none felt right. When I saw the video, I ordered it without even seeing it in person, and it fit me like a glove. I did not opt for any customisation. I wanted to wear these pieces of art exactly as Manish intended for them to be worn,” she says. That piece inspired her to visit his flagship in New Delhi, where she chose a blue lehenga for her reception and a gold sari. It was similar for bride Tarana Gill, as she planned her wedding in Mexico.

“I went to Manish Malhotra because I wanted something unique but still something that ties to tradition. I am not exaggerating when I say I found my reception lehenga and knew it was ‘the one’ within two minutes of walking into lehenga and knew it was ‘the one’ within two minutes of walking into the store. There was no doubt in my mind.”

Craft Of Couture

Malhotra looks away at his body of work as a bridal couture leader through a wider context of craft and craft communities.

 “Our craftsmanship is so rich, filled with age-old techniques like zardozi, chikankari, and handloom weaving. These traditions form the soul of my work. However, I also love the allure of contemporary silhouettes, sequins, and bold statement pieces. The key lies in creating a harmonious blend—infusing modern glamour without losing the authenticity of Indian heritage.

 It’s about celebrating our roots while making them accessible to the modern world.” This approach was evident in what can be deemed the wedding of the century.

Malhotra created several looks for bride Radhika Merchant, among them a gold lehenga in March 2024 for a pre-wedding celebration, featuring a corset blouse and corded cape serving as a dupatta.

A week ahead of the big day in July for a traditional Mameru ceremony, he designed an orange and rani pink lehenga with sentimental touches—the bandhani was a nod to her Gujarati roots, while embroideries of shlokas paid homage to the nine goddesses of Navratri.

For her vidaai, a sindoori lehenga with a brocade silk skirt and a blouse doused with real gold Karchobi work, reflecting traditional Kachchhi surface ornamentation and textile heritage.

A Jewelled Affair

Manish Malhotra’s haute joaillerie label seems inevitable when you consider the scope of his journey. Kiara Advani was the first bride to embrace Manish Malhotra High Jewellery, with his diamond and emerald pieces; subsequently, they’ve been worn outside by international stars like Jennifer Lopez, Rihanna, and Jessica Alba.

“It felt like a natural extension to my work in fashion. Each piece, whether it features diamonds, uncut diamonds, or emeralds, adds to bridal couture. With our jewellery line, I aimed to create more than just beautiful ornaments. I wanted to capture the grandeur of royal just beautiful ornaments. I wanted to capture the grandeur of royal courts. This vision inspired our signature Amour Cut, designed to reflect light with breathtaking brilliance, making it one of the rarest cuts. It’s about crafting an experience where every bride feels like royalty, bestowing her with an aura of majesty on her special day. 

Cover photo credits: Photograph by Abheet Gidwani; Make-up by Nikita Thadani; Hair by Uday Mane.

This has been adapted for the web from an article published in Manifest’s December 2024-January 2025 issue that is now on stands. For more stories like this, subscribe here!