6 Russian Fashion Brands That Should Be On Your Radar

If there needed to be a headline – not here, but you know, splashed across one of those dramatic newspaper pages – it should’ve been this: move over Paris and Milan, for it’s Moscow that’s now acing it in style!

Don’t be alarmed – I'm not one to give out scandalous statements, certainly not without doing my share of research. There’s definitely something major happening in the fashion scene in Russia, and I witnessed it when I travelled to the country’s capital last month for Moscow Fashion Week. Why hadn’t I known about it earlier? The ramp was revelling in fashion, and so were the designers who were showcasing their work.

Sitting front row, I was left awed by what I saw. The designers, both newbies and experienced, presented their designs with full abandon. There was drama, there was poise. Classic silhouettes and styles, imagined in a contemporary manner. Experimentation with symmetry. Rules broken, only to be remade. Each show had its own vibe. Yes, that’s the word. Nothing else would suffice!

BTW, even Indian designers had a moment there. The two shows organised by the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) were both equally incredible. The first was a Khadi show, organised in collaboration with Khadi India – Centre of Excellence for Khadi (CoEK), established by the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC), Ministry of MSME. And the second was a showcase by designer Samant Chauhan. Both these shows left the audiences impressed – I should know, as I was there, cheering with full gusto.

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Now that I’m back and have had some time to reflect, here’s my takeaway: there are way too many incredible Russian designers we aren’t talking about enough. And I’m here to do exactly that. Here’s my list, in no particular order, of the designers that impressed me the most at Moscow Fashion Week. These are the names, I insist, you have on your fashion radar.

Russian Fashion Brands To Bookmark

Alena Musaeva

There were no structured silhouettes in Alena Musaeva’s collection, and yet, every fit looked absolutely resplendent. Oversized coats as dresses, slinky gowns that just wouldn’t hug the body and free-flowing trousers, among other things, made a strong case for not following style structures. Even the fabrics used were a heady mix of everything – satin and pleather in the same show has definitely got to account for something, isn’t it? A masterclass in anti-fit!

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LURVIN

While I’m sure that’s not what the designer had in mind, watching the LURVIN show I was convinced the theme was bachelorette party with a side of drama. The clothes were sultry and sexy, yes, but also chaotic (in a nice way!). You could wear them to a club when you’re in the mood to party and they’d look just as fabulous the morning after when you’re drowning your hangover with a strong coffee. Glamour coupled with goth – who doesn’t like that?

Enidunaeva Sofia

Sometimes, the best thing to do is not veer too far away from classic, sophisticated style. And Enidunaeva Sofia definitely got that memo right. Her clothes were a modern-day homage to those simple yet beautiful designs we’ve loved and longed for through the ages, and she added just the right hint of sex appeal to make them palatable to women of all ages. Keeping the colour tones not dramatic was a smart move too.

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Alexander Varlakov

There’s something to be said about a male designer who presented, arguably, the most elegant-looking women’s collection at Moscow Fashion Week. Alexander Varlakov had his audiences eating out of his designer hands – the clothes were that good! The silhouettes were structured, and the cuts were just the right amount of accentuated. Nothing felt too much or too little – everything was just right. How wonderful it feels when that happens, right?

EMRE ERDEMOĞLU

A collection entirely made using faux leather and latex? The designer duo had me at hello! From pant suits to dresses and everything more, it all looked powerful, futuristic and a tad bit S&M. If the intention was to shock, it certainly did. If the designers were aiming to make a statement, they definitely did. Corporate couture, if you must, but for those who like their clothing slightly controversial. You won’t be wearing these to the boardroom, for sure, or maybe you could?

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Li Lab

This one was one of the most sensual yet dramatic shows – the theme was unravelling the essence of a rose through sensuous ensembles, so the show had enough poignant pain and latent sensuality oozing from the clothes. ‘Castle Core’ was the trend du jour here, and the warrior princess vibe couldn’t be missed. Aside from the rose, Scottish plaid was the other main motif, and somehow, it all came together spectacularly well.