In the world of painting, underpainting is when the artist covers the canvas in a base colour before starting painting. This initial layer acts as a foundation of the artwork. Although this base colour is later covered by the painting, the initial layer adds dimension to the look. When it comes to beauty, underpainting is a technique where you apply the sculpting products like contour, bronzer, and blush before the foundation, as opposed to the traditional way of applying them on top of the foundation.
The use of foundation over the other products is ironic, since the foundation was named so because it literally acts as the ‘foundation’, or the base layer of the makeup. Nevertheless, makeup artists have discovered the technique of reversing the order of application of the makeup products in a way that the products like blush, contour, and even highlighter go under the foundation.
If you’re new to underpainting and it all sounds too complex, let us bring to your attention that this technique doesn’t require the advanced skill set that the internet may have led you to believe. Makeup artist Mankirat Kaur explains, “Underpainting is a great technique for beginners who fear blending, as all the products—bronzer, contour, blush & highlighter—applied before the foundation need not be fully blended. So, all the blending mistakes get concealed once the foundation is applied. It liberates you from the hassle of perfect blending.”
Which begs the question: why should we pivot towards underpainting as opposed to sticking to the traditional approach to the application order?
Beauty is in its ‘lived-in’ era. From bare manicures to going mascara-free, keeping it real (or, pretending that you’re keeping it real) is trending. Wearing the sculpting products under the foundation gives a more natural, softer look, and minimises the appearance of harsh, saturated application. This makes underpainting ideal for anyone who likes to take the ‘less-is-more’ approach to beauty.
Makeup artist Kuhu Guptaa explains, “Underpainting is a great technique for anyone who wants to keep it light and breathable, or doesn't prefer a full face of makeup on themselves. Since you’re applying a bunch of products before the foundation, you do not need to apply the foundation all over the face in this case because there is a lot of product that is already doing the work for you. So you get away with much lesser product while still looking put-together.”
Getting the technique right
While underpainting is a rather simple technique, it is important to keep a few things in mind before you try it.
For starters, avoid heavy, full coverage foundations since they can completely cover the other layers. Instead, go for a light and dewy foundation that allows the products to show. “It is important to note that the initial layers of products should be left pigmented and not be fully blended into the skin so that they peak through even after the foundation is applied.” points out Mankirat. “When underpainting, one must ensure correct placement of contour, bronzer & blush & highlighter because once the foundation will be applied, one cannot make amends.” she adds.
Kuhu also stresses on the importance of a lightweight foundation, and leaving the initial layers pigmented. “What's good to keep in mind is that you do not want to over blend, you want to make sure all your colors are right where you would want them to show, before you start with the foundation. Using a lightweight foundation and only applying it in the areas with negative space and then blending all the edges together is the best way to go about it.” she states.